The recovery from shoulder surgery is often worse than the surgery itself. I had a rotator cuff injury that needed to be repaired. Since this was an elective procedure, I had some time to prepare for it, and I’d like to share some of that information with others who may be planning on a similar procedure. I’m posting this for informational and educational purposes only. This is not medical advice, and you should always follow the instructions from your caregivers.
How you compensate for having an arm in a sling will be determined by whether you are having surgery on your dominant arm or not. I had surgery on my right shoulder, which is also my dominant arm. Trying to do things with my left hand was awkward.
About a week before the surgery, I started to practice using only my left hand for basic functions like dressing and showering. I also tried to prepare simple meals using only that arm. It’s more complicated than you think, but it was easier to practice while I still had a functioning right arm to take over when needed. I discovered that there were some things that I could do well when practicing, but they became more difficult postop. For instance, I could put on a shirt using only one arm before surgery, but I needed assistance doing the same job once I had surgery. Update: I was able to put on a shirt by myself after a week post-op, but it was very uncomfortable to do.
I didn’t realize how huge my sling would be.
Assistance needed
Luckily, my family could assist me with jobs that would be difficult to do by myself, like removing my surgical bandage and replacing it with a waterproof barrier. If you are in a position where you are flying solo, discuss this with your doctor before your surgery. Perhaps you’ll need a nurse to check in on you. It’s always easier to arrange options beforehand.
I needed help with tasks like removing my surgical bandage and replacing it with a waterproof barrier. You can also see the breakaway shirt I purchased in this photo. It was helpful during my first three days as I couldn’t get a regular shirt over the bandage.
Setting things up
Most doctors suggest sleeping at an incline after rotator cuff surgery. Sleeping flat can be difficult as it places more pressure on your shoulder. People usually sleep in a recliner, but technically, you could sleep in a bed with a wedge pillow or on a couch with stacked pillows. I used a recliner.
My couch has built-in recliners on both ends and since my left hand would be free, I chose the end I could control with that hand. I decided to set up a recovery zone as I’d be spending a lot of time in that space. I ensured the end table next to my “nest” had a lamp I could access. I also had a spot for medication, a charging station for electronic devices, a cup of water, and space for gadgets I enjoy using.
This was the nest that I built. You can see my camper’s refrigerator freezer, then a small waste basket. Above the wastebasket is a TV tray with some electronics, and behind that is a table with medication, water, and a charging station. You can also see my back support, neck pillow, and other pillows that I used to make myself comfortable. Naturally, your needs may be different than mine.
Some people love books, and naturally, they should have books available. I’m more of an electronics person who reads books and magazines on a screen. I also write on a laptop, listen to music and the news, and do almost everything on a computer. I have a lightweight laptop, which I thought would be perfect. However, after surgery, I had a great deal of difficulty handling it as it was slippery, and when I tried to use my right hand to manipulate the mousepad, it caused me quite a bit of pain. Luckily, I have a small iPad Mini that I use when I travel. That was the perfect device, as I could easily manipulate it with one hand. In fact, I’m using speech to text dictation on it to type this post.
You might find yourself in a situation similar to mine, so it makes sense to see if you have a tablet computer around the house that you can use; if not, perhaps you can borrow one. I thought my iPad Mini’s 8-inch screen size was perfect. I would have bought a cheap tablet in a pinch if I did not have access to the Mini. I think any tablet with a screen of 7-11 inches would be usable, but an eight or nine-inch screen size is ideal as it allows for ample viewing and one-handed operation. Some can get by using their phone, but my phone’s screen was too small for me to view for long periods.
Some Android tablets can be bought for under $100, which would be worthwhile if you think you would use the device after your recovery. Small tablets make good e-readers and are great for media consumption when you’re lounging about. iPads are the best tablets (in my opinion), but inexpensive Android-based tablets can do most of the things a tablet user needs to do. Cheap Android tablets are unsuitable for high-resource games but can play simple games. If you are looking for affordable yet reputable tablets, consider the 8” Amazon Fire tablet or the 8” Walmart Onn tablet. Both are basic, but they work. The Onn tablet’s advantage is that it runs regular Android and can access millions of apps. The Fire tablet’s app store is more limited, but the tablet is tightly integrated into the Amazon ecosystem of Kindle ebooks, Prime videos, and Prime music.
My inability to use my computer lasted about a week. After that point, I was able to type with both hands. However, doing this for any length of time got my shoulder going. For quite a while post-op, I preferred the tablet, as it placed less strain on my right arm.
Regarding my recliner, I watched a YouTube video from an occupational therapist who recommended using supports for the neck and the back. The back support could be anything from an actual back support to a rolled towel to a small pillow. We had a removable back support on an office chair that I used. For my neck, I used a simple donut-style travel pillow, the kind you use on an airplane. Both supports made a difference as I tried sleeping with and without them, and I felt more comfortable with the supports in place.
I also had a variety of pillows and blankets that I could configure as my mood dictated. It can be challenging to sleep in a chair, and I wanted to maximize my comfort as much as possible. Overall, my recliner nest worked out well. However, after about a week of sleeping in a chair, I was ready to try my regular bed with a wedge pillow.
Hygiene
The more independent you can be, the better. Before my surgery, I practiced taking showers with one hand. It wasn’t as tricky as it sounds, but I had to adjust. I usually use bar soap, but I needed to give that up for shower gel in a pump bottle. The pump made it easy for me to get the soap out. I bought a shampoo and shower gel combo that worked for me. However, some people prefer separate products. I recommend getting all of those in pump bottles.
I bought a combination of shampoo and shower gel that came with a pump bottle. However, if you want to be fancy, you can go with decorator bottles that do the same.
It’s difficult to wash under your arms during recovery from rotator cuff surgery. I purchased an inexpensive sponge on a flexible rod from Amazon that helped in that area. I usually use a stick-type deodorant, but applying that post-op was impossible. Instead, I bought some deodorant in an aerosol can. These simple things allowed me to shower independently.
This sponge stick was inexpensive. But it allowed me to wash areas that I couldn’t do postop.
Your doctor will give you specific instructions on showering. My doctor told me that I could remove my bandage in three days. At that point, he told me to cover my incision sites with waterproof material. The only times that I was allowed to take off my sling were during showering, physical therapy, and putting my clothes on. I felt more secure keeping my arm in a sling when showering, and I purchased an inexpensive mesh sling from Amazon. Some patients will buy an inexpensive standard sling from the drugstore for showering, which serves the same purpose. You don’t want to get your expensive prescription sling wet.
I only used this shower sling a few times until I was comfortable showering while keeping my arms still. However, it was very inexpensive and made me feel more secure when I did use it.
I’m fortunate that our shower head detaches from the wall. We also had a shower chair from a past surgery that I could use. These things made my shower life a little easier, but I could have adapted to a less perfect situation if necessary.
Most doctors will ask you to protect your surgical site from water until the incisions are healed. They will tell you to use a waterproof barrier, and I found that Tegadem worked well. This is a transparent film that is breathable but waterproof. It comes in sheets of various sizes and clear bandages. Bathing in a tub should be avoided until your wound sites completely heal.
Men, I recommend sitting for all bathroom tasks until you are steady on your feet. Adapting wiping techniques is straightforward with a bit of creativity. However, I was fortunate to have a bidet.
I use an electric toothbrush and recommend that for anyone undergoing this procedure. You could use a regular toothbrush, but it would be a bit awkward. If possible, get a tube of toothpaste that has a flip-open lid instead of a screw cap.
I’m retired, and I’m letting my beard grow. However, if I had to be tidy, I would switch from my regular razor to an electric razor, which I believe I could manage with one hand.
Ice
Most doctors recommend that you ice your shoulder regularly after surgery. In my case, my doctor wanted me to ice 20 minutes on and 20 minutes off. Right after surgery, my very thick shoulder bandage blocked any coolness to my shoulder. However, I could place an ice pack close to my wound site by tucking it up into my sling, and that provided some comfort.
The surgicenter discharged me with a cheap disposable ice bag that I could fill with ice cubes and water. This was a poor solution. My sister gave me blue gel ice packs she used for her knee surgery. They worked well. They remained flexible when frozen, making it easy to place them where I needed to, and they stayed cold for a long time.
A variety of companies sell these gel ice packs. They’re inexpensive, flexible, and stay cold for a long time.
She also lent me a cool therapy ice machine but couldn’t find her AC adapter. I ordered one on Amazon, and it arrived three days after my surgery. The ice machine was terrific as it provided a constant cold to my wound site (by then, I had my bandage off). I found that freezing disposable water bottles worked better than using ice cubes. I had two sets of water bottles and would freeze one while using the other. Naturally, there was also water in the therapy machine as that was what was circulated to my shoulder. I think buying an expensive cool therapy machine for shoulder surgery would be overkill, but if you can borrow one or if your insurance will cover the rental of one, I would highly recommend it; otherwise, I liked the inexpensive gel packs.
Cool theory machines are excellent. But they’re pretty expensive.
When I retired, I built a camper van with a friend. The build included a chest-style refrigerator/freezer. I moved the camper’s fridge to my family room to freeze my ice packs and water bottles. I also kept some frozen meals in it. I still have kids at home who are always on the hunt for a quick meal, and keeping some meals in my little freezer ensured I had easy-to-make food on hand. My camper fridge/freezer was a convenient option. I used it because I had it. Otherwise, a regular freezer would be fine.
Food
Preparing and eating food can be challenging, even for simple tasks like opening a can. Luckily, many inexpensive adaptive gadgets can help with everything from opening a jar to pulling a pop top.
These silicone mats are not only great for gripping, but they can also stabilize a jar or a bowl on the table. This pop top puller was only a few dollars and was very welcomed by my cat, who demands to be fed first thing in the morning
Generally, I went for food items that I could prepare with one hand. I purchased some single-serving frozen dinners that I could easily make in a microwave. I also purchased soup in cans. As far as the soups were concerned, we already had a microwavable bowl cozy. This allowed me to take the bowls from the microwave without scalding myself. If I hadn’t had the cozy, I think it would have been safer to heat them on our induction stove.
A friend made us this soup cozy several years ago. We use it all the time. It’s convenient when taking hot bowls out of the microwave.
Fortunately, my wife and kids took turns making dinner, so there was something to eat at dinner time. However, lunchtime was more on my clock; I picked things I could easily make and never went hungry.
Clothing
Dressing can be a challenge. It’s much easier if you can stay at home during your early recovery, which is what I did. Starting from the feet, I recommend slippers or socks that pull on easily. If you are going out, wear slip-ons or those shoes from Kizik and Skechers that can be put on hands-free.
Stretchy underwear helps, and elastic waistband-type pants are a must. The pants could be sweatpants, pajama pants, or whatever you have. In warmer weather, elastic waistband workout shorts would work. You don’t want to wear pants with buckles and zippers, as both are difficult to close with one hand.
Most recommend using button-down shirts, as getting them around your wounded shoulder is more manageable. Stretchy T-shirts also work. It’s January, but I’m wearing a short-sleeve shirt, as pulling on a long-sleeve is difficult for me.
I purchased a special shirt for shoulder injuries that had snaps along its edge, allowing me to open up one side of the shirt. This was helpful during the first three days of my recovery as I was wearing a gigantic bandage on my injured shoulder, making it impossible to pull any regular shirt over it. After the bandage was off, I could wear button shirts and stretchy T-shirts.
Some crafty folks buy a few cheap tee shirts, split them along their seams, and reattach the two sides with Velcro. If you are a non-sewer, you can use scissors to open the bottom of the arm of a cheap tee shirt to accommodate the shoulder bandage. If desired, you can reattach the opening using safety pins.
This should go without saying, but always sit when you put on your clothing. Standing carries the potential for a fall, a disaster for your healing shoulder. A little stool works well, as does sitting on the toilet seat.
Pain management
You’ll likely be offered a nerve block, an optional procedure. My anesthesiologist highly recommended it. It numbed my arm from surgery to about 8 p.m. and was a godsend. At 8 PM, I started to feel some pain and took a pain pill plus naproxen per my doctor’s instructions. However, at two in the morning, I woke up in horrific pain, at which point I took another pain pill. Unfortunately, that one took about an hour before it kicked in. After that point, I was pretty aggressive with my pain management, especially at night. I would set an alarm to wake me so I could take a dose before the last pill wore off. This allowed me to sleep and kept my pain down to a manageable level. The pain does get better every day, so I was able to taper the narcotic pills over time. Naturally, I always followed my doctor’s advice and instructions.
A word of advice. If you think you’ll be taking medication during the night, it sometimes makes sense to have that medication out and ready in a little container. In a sleepy state, you may take the wrong medicine or too much medication if you pour it out of a medicine bottle. In addition, you can invert the “child-proof” cap on most prescription medicine bottles to turn them into simple screw caps. With both of the above suggestions, use common sense if you have little ones about; you don’t want them getting into your medications.
Other medications
My doctor gave me a prescription medication for nausea, which surprised me. I’ve had other surgeries and never suffered from long-term nausea postop. However, I had quite a bit of nausea after this surgery and was grateful to have the prescription medication.
Doctors often recommend taking some sort of stool softener, which may be a pill or just extra fiber. Narcotic pain medication can be constipating, and no one wants to have to deal with that, along with shoulder pain. If your doctor doesn’t prescribe some sort of stool softener, ask for his or her recommendations on this topic.
Cautionary note
There’s a lot of advice about rotator cuff surgery on YouTube from patients and orthopedic surgeons. You must follow your doctor’s advice. Different doctors do different procedures, and taking another doctor’s advice could potentially hamper your recovery.
Likewise, although the patient-created YouTube videos I watched seemed sincere, their suggestions varied. Use common sense when watching them. I used them primarily for mobility tips rather than orthopedic advice.
I also found videos from occupational therapists discussing topics like getting dressed or sleeping in a recliner. I found those the most helpful.
Final thoughts
Rotator cuff surgery is relatively common but can be an unpleasant recovery. With planning, life becomes more manageable. Make sure you follow your doctor’s advice. You’ll be given written instructions that you should read several times. I found information on my second read that I missed on the first. Remember not to push your recovery limits, as you could potentially re-tear your rotator cuff and cause more problems—best of luck.
The above is my personal opinion and should not be construed as medical advice.
Images are my own and from various websites and are used for educational purposes only.
As my relatives age, I have become increasingly aware of the importance of seniors having internet access. It is how we communicate, entertain ourselves, do business activities, and shop. Most of us have some sort of smartphone, but if you are a senior, it can be challenging to view a tiny screen or to press tiny on-screen buttons.
My oldest sister is in her 80s and no longer chooses to deal with the hassle of a laptop. Yet, she wants to stay current with social media and news outlets. She switched to an iPad some years ago and hasn’t looked back.
The advantage of a tablet computer, like an iPad, is that it is very hands-on and graphical. Open a program? Press an icon. Turn the page when reading an e-book? Swipe. Fill in a form? Touch a text box and tap in your answer using the sizeable on-screen keyboard. Watch a YouTube video? Press and go! There is no need to type commands or even navigate a mouse.
In a recent post, I wrote extensively about laptops and tablets for seniors. A tablet is the way to go for those who are technologically challenged. The basic iPad is my number one tablet recommendation for seniors; it retails for around $350. It is very intuitive and a pleasure to use. However, $350 can be out-of-range for some, so I also listed (and tested) a couple of sub-two hundred dollar tablets that ran the Android operating system. Although not quite as nice as the iPad, they were still very useable.
While researching the topic, I found several favorable reviews of Walmart’s Onn 10.1 tablet (2024 version). This tablet intrigued me because it was less than $100. Some seniors have minimal incomes, but many can afford $100. Additionally, a $100 gifted tablet from a friend or loved one would not be out of the question. Lastly, at the other end of the age spectrum, a $100 tablet could be a reasonable choice for a child who always wants to play with mom’s smartphone. Would such a device be useable or an exercise in frustration? That is what I decided to test.
For those interested in the bottom line, the Walmart Onn 10.1 tablet (2024 version) is a viable solution for those on a budget. If you can afford a basic iPad, go with that. Even a sub-two hundred dollar Android table will give you a better experience than the Onn 10.1. However, after testing the Onn for several weeks, it is entirely usable and would serve the needs of most seniors. Please note that I’m reviewing the 2024 version. Walmart sells a 2022 version for less than $60, but its 2 GB of RAM is inadequate. In addition, that tablet is running an outdated version of Android.
Let’s dig into the weeds.
The Walmart Onn 10.1 (2024 edition) tablet is available in several colors for a low price of $99.00. Various cases can be had for an additional $10-20. It is highly recommended that you purchase a protective case, preferably one with a way to stand the tablet up for movie watching.
Hardware
The Onn 10.1, 2024 edition features 3 GB of RAM and 32 GB of memory/storage. This is the bare minimum needed for a modern tablet. Running a single app at a time (like Facebook) takes a few seconds to load, but once loaded, it runs well. This tablet is not suited to run multiple programs at once. The 32 GB of memory/storage is sufficient for most casual users who want to play simple games, check in to Facebook, watch Netflix, etc. This tablet has a micro-SD expansion slot, so you can inexpensively add additional storage. This extra storage would be helpful for those who have significant storage needs—for instance, those wanting many movies stored directly on their tablet.
Memory/Storage
The Onn comes preloaded with a lot of useful software, including:
Gmail (email program)
Google Maps (mapping program)
Google Drive (cloud storage)
Google TV (TV-watching app, subscription needed)
Play Books (e-books similar to Amazon Kindle. Some books are free, others purchased)
Google Wallet (e-wallet to pay for things, use e-hotel keys, carry an e-driver license and more)
Google Contacts (e-address book)
Google Photos (photo storage in the cloud and photo editing)
YouTube (video-watching site)
Google Meet (video conferencing similar to ZOOM)
Google Calendar (e-calendar)
A calculator
An alarm clock/timer
And more
I loaded some additional apps that seniors might use, including simple games. Your app needs could be different. I was primarily interested in seeing how much storage would be left on the tablet after loading a “typical” number of apps. It is very easy to add apps using the included Google Play store. These are the apps that I added:
Netflix (for movie and TV watching)
Facebook (social media app)
Facebook Messenger (a texting app).
WhatsApp (a texting, voice calling, and video chat program).
Google Chat (texting and video chat program).
The Weather Channel (weather information).
Jewel/Osco (a grocery/pharmacy app for online shopping and prescription renewal).
Amazon (shopping app).
eBay (shopping app).
State Farm (car/home insurance app).
Solitaire (game).
Candy Crush (game).
Chess (game).
Docs (Google’s free word processor).
Sheets (Google’s free spreadsheet program).
My Chart (Portal to healthcare providers).
Spotify (streaming music app).
Epson Print (print and document scanning for Epson printers)
Note: I use a nation-wide bank which has an app. However, the Onn was incompatible with that app (although other bank apps were compatible). However, I could still easily access my bank using its website via the included Chrome Internet browser.
After adding these programs, 10 GB of the 32 GB of initial storage remained. That is plenty to store a bunch of photos or documents. A 128 GB micro-SD card can be purchased for around $10 if more storage is needed.
Display
The 10” display is the perfect size for most. It is large yet easy to hold. The Onn 10.1 tablet (2024) has a screen resolution of 1280 x 800, less than many tablets. Photos and videos look fine. Print is OK but not as crisp as on tablets with higher pixel counts. I was initially very aware of the softer-looking text, but I adjusted to it over time. However, it may be tiring to read very long documents.
Watching Videos/Video Calls
I had no problems watching videos on this tablet. The images were sharp and clear.
I tried several video chat programs, including WhatsApp, Facebook Messenger, and Google Chat, and I could make video calls. The 2 MP front-facing camera was not the greatest, but it did the job well enough.
Video calls worked pretty well.
Texting
I tried texting using several apps, including WhatsApp, Google Chat, and Facebook Messenger. They all worked well. You can also link your phone and send standard text messages from this tablet, but I didn’t try that function.
Using the included Chrome browser
Tablets from years past used inferior browsers, but newer tablets, like the Onn 10.1 (2024), have browsers that look similar to their PC counterparts. I had no problem viewing websites, filling out forms, or checking bank balances.
Email
You need a free Google Gmail account to log into any Android device, including this tablet. It is easy to sign up for one. If you already use a non-Google email address, add that account to the Gmail mail client or use a separate dedicated app or website client.
Logging in
To open this tablet, you must enter an eight-number digital password. The Onn does not have sophisticated security functions like face or fingerprint recognition.
Operating speed
My iPad instantly opens apps, while the Onn takes a few seconds. My iPad can run multiple programs simultaneously, while the Onn is best at running just one program at a time. Scrolling on my iPad was smooth as butter but a bit less smooth on the Onn. However, none of these are deal breakers. I would have been pleased with its performance if I hadn’t directly compared the Onn to my iPad.
Battery life/charging speed
Battery life was excellent. I used the Onn extensively for two days and still had a battery to spare. However, charging times are slow. It is best to plug in the Onn overnight to prepare for the next day.
Speakers
The Onn’s on-board speaker is loud but lacks bass and is a bit harsh. However, it was perfectly useable.
Ports/headphone jack
The Onn lacks a headphone jack, a trend in many newer tablets. However, you can still connect headphones, dramatically improving the tablet’s sound.
The only port on the Onn is a multi-function USB C port. This port allows you to charge the Onn and connect it to many things. You can connect wired USB-C headphones, which can be purchased inexpensively, and other peripherals, like a keyboard or hub.
WiFi/Bluetooth
I found it easy to connect the Onn to my WiFi network, and the connection was stable. The Onn has Bluetooth capabilities that can connect many things, from wireless keyboards to wireless headphones/earbuds.
Cameras
The Onn has a front-facing 2 MP and a rear-facing 5 MP camera. The photo quality is barely acceptable. It is good enough to send a friend a photo of an outfit you bought or have a video call with the grand-kids. Better tablets have better cameras.
The 2 MP front camera is usable for video calls.The 5 MP rear camera was pretty poor with terrible dynamic range and detail.
Build
The build quality is surprisingly good with an aluminum case. However, the case is a bit slippery.
Accessories to consider
A case is a must, as the Onn is slippery. I bought a cheap $10 case, which is fine, but it could not prop up the Onn. I would spend a few dollars more and buy a case that props up the Onn for movie-watching.
Headphones are also nice, providing much better audio quality and private listening. USB-C headphones can be plugged in, and the Onn can also use wireless headphones and earbuds via Bluetooth.
Bluetooth keyboards come in a variety of sizes and styles. Some are full-sized, others are part of a case, and still others can be folded for travel. They are handy if the user plans on doing a lot of keyboard work on their tablet, such as writing long emails.
Bottom line
Yes, there are better tablets, my favorite being the iPad. However, for less than $100, the Onn 10.1 (2024 edition) provides excellent value and can do almost any basic task that an average senior needs. If money is tight, I recommend the Onn 10.1 (2024 edition), available only at Walmart or Walmart.com.
We have a holiday tradition at Kunaland; our appliances seem to break down, and this year was no exception.
When I moved into my home over 35 years ago, the previous owners left a fridge and a stove. After I bit, I updated both to fancy stainless steel versions and placed the original appliances in the basement. They served us well there, especially the fridge, which was constantly plugged in and used as our grocery overflow center. It stopped cooling a few months ago, and sat dormant. My initial plan was to become more conservative and live with one fridge. However, the sacrifice never got easier. With Thanksgiving on the horizon, I contacted my appliance repair man, who gave me various tips as I replaced everything from the defrost timer to a startup capacitor, all to no avail. My ancient fridge had reached its end of life.
One week before Thanksgiving, my 20-year-old dishwasher started to act up. I originally had purchased a brand with a high-reliability rating, and that appliance had only been repaired once (for a door latch) all that time. However, it was stopping mid-cycle and was not draining water. The only way I could get it to re-initialize was to go into the basement, turn off its circuit breaker for 5 minutes, and then turn it back on. This suggested that a logic board was failing, which was an expensive repair. It was time to say goodbye to that unit, too.
I had to replace two major appliances, but both had served me well. That can’t be said of other newer and more expensive appliances I have had to replace in my 30+ years of living in my home.
I replaced the original stove and refrigerator with fancy and higher-end stainless steel units from Kenmore. In less than 10 years, both had multiple repairs and quickly reached their end of life. They were replaced by a Kenmore induction stove and a Samsung French door refrigerator. The Kenmore lasted around ten years, but that was with multiple service calls. Finally, its main logic board had to be replaced, but Sears was no longer stocking that board, and the unit had to be scrapped. Worse was the Samsung fridge, which was a nightmare. I fixed the unit multiple times and also had numerous repair calls. Finally, the freezer door fell off (no, we don’t abuse our appliances), which was so costly that the repairman advised us to junk the fridge. We replaced the Kenmore Induction stove with a GE Induction stove and the Samsung fridge with a Whirlpool French door refrigerator. So far, the GE stove has been OK, but the Whirlpool has required a number of service calls. It also has a habit of freezing behind the crisper door, which it did on Thanksgiving. This warms the fridge compartment to the point of food spoiling. The only option is to remove everything from the fridge and freezer, unplug the unit, and let it defrost for 24 hours. This is happening on a refrigerator that costs well over $2000.00.
My parents bought a single-door Kenmore fridge in 1950. It was our primary fridge for over 20 years until someone gave us their old (late 50s) but larger two-door fridge. The Kenmore fridge went into the basement and continued operating until the mid-1970s when we moved and left it behind. The same applies to their old and inexpensive Crown brand stove. Neither appliance required any service during their very long lives.
Our appliance guy has encouraged us to keep our ancient washer and dryer, noting, “Most new appliances are junk. They require constant repair, and often parts are unavailable, forcing the consumer to buy a new machine.” It does seem like he is right. Appliances that were built to last for decades in the past barely make it to 10 years, and that is with constant repairs in the interim. Yet, they are more expensive and tout endless, and often unnecessary, bells and whistles.
My wife and kids love the in-door water and ice maker on our fridge, but I have been told that these additions are a major point of failure. The fancy gaskets and flaps used to lower fridge energy costs frequently malfunction (I fixed the ones on the Samsung fridge at least half a dozen times). Computer logic boards are often placed in high-stress areas, like directly above a stove’s oven, causing them to fail. Unlike mechanical parts used for generations of appliances, logic boards are unique to a small set of models. They are stocked in limited numbers, and after a short period, they become unavailable, making a fixable appliance obsolete.
Mechanical parts have also undergone a crapifacation. The newer and more energy-efficient linear compressors on LG fridges are so failure-prone that LG is now facing a class action lawsuit. Whirlpool is facing a class action lawsuit for defective wiring of their fridges. Samsung is facing a lawsuit stating that their washers corrode faster than they should. Bosch just settled a lawsuit for electronic panels on their appliances that were failing prematurely. Electrolux/Frigidaire is being sued because their washing machines are prone to mold issues, resulting in excessive service calls. LG and Kenmore are being sued for refrigerators failing early. As I researched this post, I just discovered that last year, the owners of my fridge model received a settlement for defective refrigerator evaporators freezing up, which is precisely the problem that requires me to “defrost” my frost-free fridge. Sadly, I’m past the deadline. I’m sure that there are more lawsuits out there. However, these listings make the point that major expensive appliances are failing at an abnormally high rate.
Computer-controlled appliances give us features that we likely don’t need. For instance, my stove and dishwasher can be controlled via WiFi. Has that made my life any better? No. My fridge has a panel that allows me to electronically control things like the size of my ice cubes and the fridge’s temperature. Do I need to control the ice cube size? No. Does my fancy electronic temperature display provide me any benefit that a more straightforward mechanical control didn’t? No. My old washer and dryer have simple dials. Do I yearn for a spaceship-level computerized control panel? No.
Many of these new features are sold to consumers as advancements created to improve one’s life or energy usage. However, any benefit seems relatively marginal to me, and any energy saving is offset by repair costs as well as the cost of replacing these appliances earlier. Further, the environmental, material, and energy costs of manufacturing huge appliances would negate societal benefits.
Of course, I understand that some older appliance components, like toxic refrigerants, had to change. However, manufacturers have used energy and environmental mandates as an excuse to make shoddy products that are more expensive and fail faster, punishing both the consumer and the environment. The goal seems to be planned obsolescence and shareholder profits, in my opinion.
Here are some tips from appliance repairmen that may help with future appliance purchases:
Avoid complicated fridges, especially those with indoor water/ice makers, as they consistently break. At this time, Samsung and LG refrigerators should be avoided as they malfunction more often than other brands. Some repairmen advise getting the most basic fridge possible; you can still buy simple top freezer fridges with mechanical controls. However, even these units likely use cheaper components, like Chinese-made compressors.
When I replaced our basement fridge, I went with a brand-name unit that was as basic as I could find it. This GE fridge has mechanical controls and no ice maker.
Regarding washers and dryers, there is a consensus that new top and front loaders wash clothes less effectively and break down faster than older machines. Front loaders are especially prone to mold issues. Don’t be fooled by the enormous drums on newer top loaders. Most new washers will only partially fill with water and take longer to complete a cycle. Users note that they need to wash smaller loads despite the giant size of their washer’s drums. Additionally, top loaders that use impeller plates instead of a traditional agitator are prone to overloading and going out of balance. Since they use cheap components, such actions can quickly destroy the washer’s suspension system. Several repairmen cited LG top loaders as being of higher quality than typical home washers. Most repairmen noted that the costly Speed Queen brand was significantly better in terms of cleaning ability, durability, and reliability than consumer brands. Additionally, the commercial version (not the home version) of the Maytag washer is built to a higher standard than most, but not as high as Speed Queen.
Speed Queen washers may look basic, but they are built better and clean better than newer models. Expect to pay more for these qualities.
Dishwashers also fail quicker than they used to. The one brand that was thought of more highly than the others was Bosch.
When our 20 year dishwasher died I replaced it with a Bosch purchased on a Black Friday sale.
Stoves should last a very long time, but they often fail due to logic boards placed directly above the hot oven. Would you store your computer on a hot stove? Of course not, but that is precisely what manufacturers do with their logic boards (the main computer board for the appliance). Consumer Reports polled their subscribers, and they rated GE (now owned by the Chinese corporation Hairer), LG, and Frigidaire as more reliable. While Samsung, Maytag, and Kitchenade were less reliable.
GE stoves seemed to be more reliable than some other brands based on a CR survey. Basic is better as bells and whistles tend to break down.
Brands like Kenmore, Insignia, and Criterion are typically made by various third-party companies in Asia like Haier, Daewoo, and Midea. Kenmore used to be considered good quality when its appliances were made by the US companies Whirlpool and Frigidaire, but then it shifted its manufacturing to LG and Samsung, later to Hairer, and now to Daewoo. Repairmen have noted that each change has generally resulted in less reliable products.
Chinese manufacturers like Haier, which makes appliances for US companies like Best Buy, are now introducing their own product lines into the US market. It is still being determined if these products are better quality than those units that they make for US brands. Additionally, repairmen have noted that some repair parts have been difficult to get for these products. That may improve over time.
Elite brands like GE’s Monogram, Viking, and Thermador are more complex and tend to break down more frequently per repairmen. However, owners seem to like these fancy appliances.
The best advice is to fix your old appliances when possible and, when necessary, purchase the most reliable new ones that you can afford. The more bells and whistles you have on any appliance, the more things that can break.
I enjoy being retired because I can explore obscure topics without feeling guilty that I should be doing “real work.”
In my last post, I investigated the energy efficiency of tabletop cooking appliances and was surprised by how energy-efficient pressure cookers were. Some were over eight times more energy efficient than a large crock pot I tested. That was amazing, so I thought I would research them more.
Pressure cookers have always remained popular in countries with high energy costs or limited energy resources. However, they became less common in the US market after microwave ovens and crock pots gained popularity in the 1970s. However, they have had a significant resurgence since the introduction of the Instant Pot in 2010.
In the late 1600s, Denis Papin developed a primitive pressure cooker called the Steam Digester. It was used to extract fat and break down animal bones.
The Steam Digestor-Image from Wikipedia.
In 1857, Louis Pasteur published his first paper on the role of bacteria in fermentation, heralding an understanding of the role of microorganisms in cheese production and milk spoilage. His research led to the germ theory and the role of microorganisms in disease.
By the late 1800s, manufacturers were using pressurized steam to sterilize the contents of canned foods. In 1905, the National Pressure Cooker Company (now National Presto Industries) started manufacturing large pressure canners for commercial operations. In 1917, the USDA established a canning pressure of 15 PSI as the standard. The USDA deemed pressure canning the only way to safely can low-acid foods (meats, beans, etc.). Canner retorts are the predecessors of the home pressure cooker.
Alfred Vischer introduced the first home pressure cooker, the Flex-Seal Speed Cooker, in 1938. However, the Presto pressure cooker, introduced at the 1939 New York World’s Fair, was the one that caught the attention of homemakers. The Presto was revolutionary as it utilized a simple twist on the pressure lid instead of relying on screws or clamps. The 1930s were a time when home kitchens were starting to modernize. One can only imagine the significance of the pressure cooker, a device that could cook food three to ten times faster than conventional methods. Pressure cookers became a hit, similar to the home microwave oven’s popularity when they became affordable in the 1970s. The original Presto Pressure Cookers were made of aluminum.
The Flex-Seal Speed Coooker-Image from eBay seller.
World War II ended consumer manufacturing as industries were reassigned to the war effort, but demand for pressure cookers remained high. Presto stopped manufacturing pressure cookers but continued manufacturing retort canners, deemed necessary for the homefront war effort. However, they were made of steel, as aluminum was too crucial for the war.
Companies in the US resumed production of home pressure cookers in 1945. Since there was a high demand for pressure cookers, multiple manufacturers took on the task. Some companies were more concerned with profit than safety and produced unsafe units. Stories about pressure cookers exploding are from this time.
Any kitchen tool can be dangerous, from a dull kitchen knife to a saucepan left unattended on a stove. Modern pressure cookers are kitchen tools, so they fit into this list. However, they have multiple safety features built in and are very safe if used according to common sense and the provided instructions.
My pressured story
I grew up in a household that used a pressure cooker several times a week. My mom made the most amazing soups, stews, goulash, chicken paprikash, chop suey, pot roast, swiss steak, and so much more in her Model 40 Presto aluminum pressure cooker. The cooker was built like a tank, and she also used it as a regular pot by leaving off the pressure regulator. It was the gadget of choice to make popcorn as its thick base made burning popcorn less likely.
This is exactly how I remember my mother’s Presto Model 40. Purchased some time in the 1940s and still in active service 80 years later. Image from an eBay seller.
This old-style unit operated slightly differently from more modern cookers. You waited until a stream of steam came out of the vent tube before popping on the regulator, which seemed to have a spring design as it allowed you to cook at several pressures. I’ll talk more about regulators later in this post.
My mom used that 4-quart cooker to feed a family of seven until the mid-1970s when she bought an aluminum 6-quart Presto. She continued to use both pots depending on her cooking needs. The new pot had the more familiar “jiggler” style pressure regulator. Both required very little maintenance. Every year or two, my mom would send me to our local 5 and 10 store to buy a rubber gasket, and I also recall going there once to buy a rubber pressure plug. Both purchases were inexpensive.
This Presto is very similar to the 6-quart cooker that my mom bought in the 1970s. It was functional when I inherited it, but its flakey paint made me not use it. Image from an eBay seller.
When my mom passed, my sister got the Presto model 40 and continued to use it regularly until 2017, when her operator error destroyed it. Since the Model 40 was produced in the 1940s, that pot lasted almost 80 years! I was given the 6-quart Presto but didn’t use it much. The yellow paint on its exterior was badly flaked and looked ugly. Instead, I bought a new stainless steel pressure cooker and continued the family cooking tradition.
I’m a gadget guy, so I have many kitchen appliances. I find learning how to use them enjoyable. During my adult life, I have used all sorts of pressure cookers in various situations, including when I camp. I am sold on them and know they are both speedy and efficient. However, I didn’t realize how energy-saving they were until I researched my last post.
In that post, I discovered stove-top and electric (think Instant Pot) pressure cookers were significantly more efficient than slow cookers. I always thought the Crock Pot was the small appliance energy king.
Why are pressure cookers beneficial?
They cook 3 to 10 times faster than standard cooking methods.
They are one of the most energy-efficient cooking appliances.
They retain nutrients more than many other cooking methods.
They are highly versatile and can cook anything from a hearty bean soup to a delicate cheesecake.
They can transform tough cuts of meat into tender, delectable dinners.
They can cook multiple foods at once without mixing flavors.
Dehydrated foods like dried beans can be cooked without pre-soaking.
How can they cook as fast as they do?
Pressure cookers require liquid, which they boil and turn into steam. That steam pushes out the air in the cooking vessel, at which point the pot seals and pressure builds in the pot.
Liquid water is always trying to turn into a gas. If you pour some water on your driveway, it will evaporate into a gas. You can accelerate that evaporation process by adding energy to the water in the form of heat. The water will boil, and you can see the evaporation process as steam. Water boils at sea level at 212F (100C). No matter how much energy you supply to the pot, the liquid water will never exceed 212F. It is at equilibrium with atmospheric pressure pushing it down at 15 PSI (pounds per square inch).
Water will boil at a lower temperature at high elevations where the atmospheric pressure is less than 15 PSI, and the converse is also true. If there were a way to increase the atmospheric pressure above 15 PSI, water would boil at a higher temperature. A pressure cooker can do just that.
The atmospheric pressure at sea level is 15 PSI. A standard American stove-top pressure cooker operates at two times this atmospheric pressure (15 PSI + 15 PSI = 30 PSI), allowing the water in the vessel to be heated to 250F (121C) instead of 212F (100C), and this cooks food faster.
PSI’s impact on the boiling point of water. Image from hippressurecooking.com
But why does a pressure cooker cook foods faster than an oven, which can reach 400F and beyond? Food cooked in an oven has an insulating layer of cooler air around it, slowing down the cooking process. Convection ovens use a fan to break through that insulating layer partially, so they cook faster than conventional ovens. Pressure cookers eliminate the air-insulating layer by pushing it out and replacing it with scorching steam.
Additionally, all foods are mostly water. A carrot is around 88% water, and a pot roast is around 70% water. Under normal atmospheric pressure, this internal water can only be heated to 212F at sea level (just like the water in the pot itself). However, it can reach higher temperatures under pressure, allowing food to cook faster. That additional heat breaks down connective tissue faster, which is how a tough pot roast can turn into a delectable dinner in only an hour of cooking.
I just told you that water’s boiling point depends on atmospheric pressure and that water boils at a lower temperature at higher altitudes as there is less atmospheric pressure. This reduction in boiling temperature can lengthen the time it takes to cook something in a pot, and the same is valid for using a pressure cooker at high altitudes. A US stove-top pressure cooker will increase the pressure in the cooking vessel by 15 PSI above the outside pressure. The general rule is you need to add around 5% more cooking time for every 1,000 feet above 2,000 feet elevation. If you are cooking something that requires 60 minutes of pressure cooking time at sea level, it may take 63 minutes at 3000 feet above sea level.
Secret Added Time.
It may sound impressive that a pressure cooker can cook something in less time needed by traditional methods, but that time is calculated after the appliance has reached pressure. The liquid has to boil and create steam for this to be accomplished, and depending on the volume of liquid in the pot, that may take a bit. As a loose rule of thumb, assume around ten minutes to reach pressure, at which point timing begins. If a dish says it will be done in 15 minutes, add the boiling/pressure-building time. That would be 10 min (pressure building time) + 15 min (pressure cooking time) or 25 minutes total cook time.
Quick Release vs. Natural Release.
The heat is turned off at the end of pressure cooking time, but the food continues to cook. Recipes will either tell you to let the pressure come down naturally or to release it quickly.
In a natural release, you let the pressure come down naturally. Often, this means waiting 10 minutes and then doing a quick release. Food will continue to cook in this mode, but slower. Meats, like beef, can become dry if you do a quick release, as the change in pressure will pull moisture out of them. A natural or slow release prevents this.
A quick release is most commonly done by tilting a jiggler-type regulator or moving a lever on a spring-type regulator (see your instruction book). Some old stove-top books may tell you to put the base in a pan of water or to carefully run cool water on the lid. A quick-release stops cooking and is used for many delicate foods, like fish and vegetables. Editor’s Note: NEVER place the base of an electric cooker in a pan of water, and NEVER run cool water on the lid of an electric cooker. You will destroy it if you do.
Different manufacturers use different pressure standards.
A word of caution: US stove-top cookers typically pressurize at 15 PSI, modeled after USDA requirements for sterilizing foods. Their operating temperature is 250F (121C). European stove-top cookers often pressurize to 13 PSI; their operating temperature will be 245 F (118C), not 250 F. Some Chinese stove-top pressure cookers operate at 8 PSI, yielding only 234F (112C).
Most electric pressure cookers cycle between 10-12 PSI and cook at a lower operating pressure than a standard US stove-top. This means you may need to adjust cooking time with different pressure cookers. For instance, something that would cook for 45 minutes using a standard 15 PSI stove-top pressure cooker may take up to 60 minutes using a typical electric pressure cooker.
Some manufacturers produce cookers whose operating pressures are different from model to model. The Spanish company Magefesa does that. Some pressure cookers have US and European models that pressurize at different levels. The German Fissler brand cookers use 13 PSI in Europe and are recalibrated to 15 PSI for their US versions.
A Fissler German pressure cooker. Pricey but well thought of. Image from Amazon.com
Many pressure cookers list their operating PSI (or kpa) on their product page or the cooker. If you can’t find the operating pressure of a pressure cooker, you will have no idea about proper cooking times.
Although making adjustments between machines may sound confusing, they are easy to implement. Cookbooks written for a particular appliance and the recipe books provided with the gadget will automatically give you the correct cooking time. Additionally, you will likely gain an intuitive understanding. For instance, if I use an Instant Pot recipe on a stove-top pressure cooker, I know to reduce the time a bit. However, when purchasing, I would stick with a standard 13 or 15 PSI stove-top or a 10-12 PSI electric pressure cooker (Instant Pot and many others). There is a wealth of information on these devices and tons of recipes.
A real pressure cooker danger.
Some exotic pressure cookers, like the Instagram-trending Afgan pressure cookers, may be dangerous due to contaminants. Afghan pressure cookers use reclaimed aluminum, sometimes from old car parts. Afghan pressure cookers have been known to leach lead into foods.
PSI vs. kpa.
Pressure can be measured in several different ways. For US pressure cookers, we use PSI (pounds per square inch); for the rest of the world, they use kpa (kilopascals).
15.0 PSI = 100 kpa temp 250F, cook time 23% of traditional cook time
13.0 PSI = 90 kpa temp 246F, cook time 27% of traditional cook time
11.5 PSI = 80 kpa temp 242F, cook time 32% of traditional cook time
10.0 PSI = 70 kpa temp 241F, cook time 33% of traditional cook time
8.0 PSI = 55 kpa temp 234F, cook time 40% of traditional cook time
Pot-in-pot cooking.
It is possible to put another cooking vessel inside your pressure cooker. For instance, you can put a springform pan inside to make a cake or cheesecake (made under steam). You can also buy inexpensive stacking pots that fit typical pressure cookers. Using this method, you can cook two foods simultaneously, and their flavors won’t mix.
Different types of lids.
The lid on a pressure cooker must be secure, or it will fly off when under pressure. Presto revolutionized the home cooker by using a flange/twist-on design that is still very popular today. Some manufacturers use other methods that have also been proven to work. For instance, some third-world countries produce cookers with clamp-on lids as this style is more straightforward to manufacture. The famous Indian company Hawkins makes cookers that use a tip-in and clip lid. As long as the lid is secure, all is good, no matter the design.
Can I fill a pressure cooker to the top?
No. The maximum you can fill a pressure cooker is ⅔ full, as you need room to generate steam. Some foods can only be filled ½ way (for instance, rice and beans) as they tend to expand and could block the vent tube. The instruction book supplied with your machine can provide you with more details.
Maximum filling levels for pressure cooking. Image from hippressurecooking.com
Do I always have to add liquid to my pressure cooker?
Yes, your pot must have liquid to operate under pressure. Depending on the cooking time, a cup of water will usually do. Naturally, liquid dishes like soups already have water in them.
Why does my electric cooker say “BURN” on its display?
Electric cookers are limited by their heating elements. If you don’t have enough liquid in them or the only liquid is very thick, like tomato sauce, the cooker may burn some of the food on the bottom of the pot. This can cause temperatures to rise, which is then sensed by a thermostat, and the cooker will shut down to protect itself. It is essential to read recipes as they stipulate how to put food in a pot. For instance, a recipe may say to add broth and then tomato sauce but not mix the two. The broth can turn to steam, and you won’t get a “BURN” warning.
Do I need a cooker that can operate at multiple pressures?
Some pressure cookers can operate at more than one pressure. However, the vast majority of pressure cooker recipes use high pressure. For most, having only one pressure is all that you need.
Can I use my home pressure cooker for pressure canning?
Probably not. First, you must ensure that your unit operates at 15 PSI (the USDA standard) and maintains that pressure. Sterilization is based on both temperature and time. However, there is no way that a consumer can safely calculate a pressure cooker’s internal temperature. Poorly canned foods can breed a deadly organism called Clostridium botulinum. This bacteria produces the botulism toxin (botox), one of the most deadly neurotoxins. A very tiny amount can kill you. This botox is the same substance used to give people chemical facelifts, as it paralyzes the nerves controlling facial muscles. However, that substance is medical grade and precisely diluted. The bottom line is that If you are into canning, you are best off buying a pressurized canner (retort canner) designed for the job. Canners are calibrated and designed to get up to and maintain 15 PSI.
Are pressure cookers safe? I hear that they explode.
Some pressure cookers built during the 1940 post-war times were shoddy and could rupture. Modern pressure cookers have multiple safety devices and are safe if you follow reasonable operating procedures. Can you force a pressure cooker to explode? That is unlikely unless you deliberately modified it, as was done in the Boston Marathon bombing. The worst that can happen is that one of the safety mechanisms would activate and release a blast of steam, potentially spewing boiling water and food, providing you with a mess to clean up. I have used all types of pressure cookers for over 50 years and have never had a problem. However, use common sense; don’t leave the house when operating a pressure cooker. I stay in or near the kitchen using a stove-top unit and remain within earshot when using an electric pressure cooker (which is more automatic).
Are aluminum pressure cookers safe?
The urban legend that aluminum pots cause Altzehiemer’s disease has long been debunked. However, aluminum may leave acidic foods, like tomato sauce, tasting metallic. This is not dangerous. I have never tasted this, so that this ability may be genetic. Anodized aluminum does not impart a metallic taste.
Aluminum pressure cookers are cheaper than stainless steel pots but are only manufactured as stove-top units. The American Test Kitchen advises getting a stainless steel cooker due to the metal taste issue and their concern that an aluminum pot is less durable. However, my mom’s aluminum pot was almost 80 years old before an operator error destroyed it, so I would say that they are still pretty durable.
I would choose stainless steel if you can afford it, but go for aluminum if cost is a significant issue.
A typical aluminum pressure cooker. Image from Amazon. com
Do pressure cookers have parts that I need to take care of or replace?
Despite their advanced abilities, pressure cookers are relatively simple devices. A few parts may wear out over time.
-The gasket is a silicon ring that seals the lid and pot. I remove mine and wash it separately. I then replace it or leave it loose in the pot to be placed the next time I use my pressure cooker. Never store a pot with the gasket (seal) in place and the lid locked. This will squeeze the gasket and may impact its ability to seal. If a pot can’t hold pressure or the gasket looks damaged, it should be replaced with the same type. If you have a brand-name cooker, you can find gaskets specifically for that brand. If you have a Chinese no-name cooker, you can measure the inner diameter of the gasket in centimeters and find a replacement on Amazon, Walmart.com, or eBay. Different gaskets have somewhat different builds, so try to find one similar to your original if you have a generic cooker.
Some people keep several gaskets, one for savory foods and another for desserts, as a gasket can pick up odors. I sometimes use the top rack of my dishwasher to clean a removed gasket. Some say soaking a gasket in a diluted vinegar solution can eliminate “gasket odor.” Gaskets are inexpensive, so having an extra one on hand is a good idea.
My mom would have to change the old rubber gasket on her Presto every year or two. Current silicon gaskets are advised to be changed every 2-3 years. However, I check mine to see if it looks good and works OK. If so, I continue to use it. My Mealthy electric pressure cooker is 6 years old, and I still use the same gasket.
-Another replaceable item is the float valve. When the cooker is pressurized, this valve pops up an indicator on the lid. It also seals the pressure cooker and locks the lid from opening. The part that may go bad on the valve is the little silicon ring at its base. If your cooker isn’t pressurizing or this silicon ring looks damaged, replace it.
Should I buy a Chinese or off-brand pressure cooker?
Brand-name cookers stand by their pots. Presto makes reasonably priced pressure cookers, and they still have parts for cookers that they sold 50 years ago. Kuhn Rikon, Fagor, and Fissler are long-standing, reputable European companies. Instant Pot seems to support their electric pressure cookers (at least to a degree).
However, I have used several Chinese stove-top and electric pressure cookers that seem to be well-made. If you buy an off-brand stove-top, ensure the pressure cooker reaches 15 PSI. Some sold on eBay and Amazon do not, reaching only 8 PSI.
As far as I know, most electric pressure cookers cycle between 10 and 12 PSI, so recipes used from one electric cooker to another don’t need to be adjusted. I have used my Mealthy electric pressure cooker for years, and it works as well as an Instant Pot. The Mealthy was roughly the same price as a similar Instant Pot but came with extras, impacting my decision.
Consumables, like the sealing gasket and the silicon washer for the float valve, appear fairly generic on many off-brand models (made in the same Chinese factory?). As long as you match a part correctly, they seem to work.
I have seen some generic gaskets titled “For stainless steel pressure cookers.” I can’t say if that identifier is essential or just marketing.
What size pressure cooker should I get?
Stove-top pressure cookers come in all sorts of sizes. I have seen 2-quart, 4-quart, and even 10-quart electric pressure cookers, but they are usually 3, 6, and 8-quart units. American Test Kitchen suggests getting an 8-quart cooker because “you can always cook less in an 8-quart, but you can’t cook more in a smaller cooker. However, I disagree. My sister has an 8-quart electric for her 2-person family and would always make too much food in it. She got a 3-quart electric and is much happier. I often cook for five adults and have never had a capacity problem using my 6-quart cookers. For years, my mom used a 4-quart stove-top for a family of 7. However, when she made stew, she cooked the potatoes separately, and when she could, she eventually bought a 6-quart stove-top unit.
A 6-quart pot works in most situations and is the most flexible as it can accommodate relatively large amounts of cooking but can also easily cook smaller portion sizes. Remember that a pressure cooker can only be filled 2/3rds full, and some expanding/foaming foods like rice and beans should only be filled ½ full.
First Generation Pressure Cookers.
These stove-top pressure cookers have a simple design. Air is expelled from a vent on the oven’s lid. On top of the lid’s vent tube is a regulator of a calibrated weight. When pressure builds past 15 PSI, the weight is slightly lifted, and the excess pressure is released, causing the weight to rock. The process continues, causing the weight to “jiggle” back and forth. These pressure cookers are sometimes called jigglers because of this. Once the regulator starts to jiggle, the operator turns down the heat so that jiggling is relatively gentle. Timing starts once the regulator is rocking.
Advantages:
-A straightforward mechanism that has few moving parts.
-It is evident when the unit reaches pressure and if you need to readjust the heat to achieve gentle rocking.
-These cookers tend to be less expensive than generator-two pressure cookers.
Disadvantages:
-It is possible to lose the regulator.
-These units may lose a little more liquid in the form of steam than second-generation PCs.
-Some people find the rocking, accompanied by a swish-swish sound, scary.
-Unless you change the regulator, these units can only operate at one PSI (not a big deal).
This first-generation “jiggler” pressure cooker uses a weighted regulator that rocks open once the pot’s pressure exceeds 15 PSI. The arrow is pointing to the regulator.
Second Generation Pressure Cookers.
Second-generation stove-top pressure cookers use a spring-type regulator that doesn’t jiggle. Instead, these units hiss a bit (some more than others). They usually have an indicator that says they are under pressure and may have several pressure levels.
Like Generation-One units, you start on high heat, and when the indicator shows that the pot is under pressure, you lower the heat to maintain that pressure. For some cookers, you want to see a gentle stream of steam; in others, you are given a clear visual indicator that the pot is under proper pressure. Your pot’s instruction guide will tell you what to look for.
Advantages:
-May lose less moisture than Gen-One cooker.
-Quieter than a Gen-One cooker.
-Can often achieve several different pressure levels (not very important)
Disadvantages:
-May be more expensive than a Gen-One cooker.
-Some may prefer a Gen-One cooker’s clear visual and auditory cues.
Note: My mom’s 1940s Model 40 pressure cooker likely used a spring regulator, and her first jiggler was purchased in the 1970s, so I’m not quite sure why some experts labeled jigglers as “first-generation.”
This is a second-generation stove-top unit. The arrow points to the regulator, which does not jiggle. The arrow points to the “float valve.” As the pressure builds this valve will pop up sealing the pressure cooker and locking the lid as a safety feature.The float valve has popped up in this photo, signaling that the cooker is sealed. Now, you need to wait until a steady stream of steam comes out of the regulator (see next photo).Looking carefully, you can see a stream of steam coming out of the regulator. Once this happens, lower the heat until you see a gentle but steady stream of steam. This is when you start your time.This Kuhn Rikon pressure cooker emits very little steam. Instead, you monitor the pressure indicator on the top of the lid. Once you move to the second red bar, lower the heat to maintain this pressure level. You can see that two bars have emerged.
Both Gen One and Gen Two Pressure Cookers:
Stove-top pressure cookers can last a lifetime.
They are high-quality pots that can be used as regular stockpots when needed. In this case, the cook leaves the regulator off/open on the pressure lid or uses a different lid. Some pressure cooker manufacturers sell a separate glass lid for non-pressurized cooking.
What can a stove-top pot do?
Cooks Soups/Stews/Tough meats: Yes
Has software programs for common foods: No
Set and (almost) forget operation: No
Slow cooking function: Yes (if used like a stove-top Dutch oven)
Make Rice: Yes (a favorite ability)
Make hard-boiled eggs: Yes
Make Yogurt: No
Sous Vide foods: No
Cook other grains: Yes
Make desserts like cheesecake: Yes
Can saute in the pan: Yes
Cook at 15 PSI: Yes (Many)
Can last a lifetime: Yes
Requires AC outlet: No
Third Generation Pressure Cookers.
Third-generation cookers are electric, the most obvious being the Instant Pot. However, the Instant Pot was not the first electric pressure cooker on the scene. The first electric cooker was introduced in 1991, and the Instant Pot came out in 2010.
I had a Nesco electric pressure cooker in the mid-90s that worked very well. My Nesco had typical pressure cooker functions and a slow cooker setting. The Instant Pot and its clones added a lower temperature setting to make yogurt and some simple timing programs for common foods, like stew and rice. The Instant Pot became a hit because it was featured on Amazon during a Black Friday sale. Robert Wang was wise to call the Instant Pot something different than a pressure cooker as that neutralizes Urban Legend explosion fears. People got intrigued by pressure cookers and didn’t even know it!
Advantages:
These pots offer set-it-and-forget-it capabilities. Press a few buttons, and the cooker will reach pressure for a set amount of time and then go to keep warm. In most cases, the operator is responsible for releasing pressure if indicated.
Disadvantage:
-Requires an AC outlet.
-As a small electric, the lifespan of a 3rd generation is limited.
-Many more components than a stove-top unit. Circuit boards, pressure sensors, temperature sensors, thermal fuses. The list goes on.
These pots typically cycle between 10-12 PSI, lower than a stove-top unit. Some smaller pots may have an even lower operating pressure. Only one electric pot, the Instant Pot Max, can achieve the standard 15 PSI. However, some reviewers noted that it didn’t cook any faster than typical Instant Pots, which are less expensive.
Sous Vide foods: A few machines (poor results reported).
Cook other grains: Yes
Make desserts like cheesecake: Yes
Cook at 15 PSI: Only one machine, the Instant Pot Max.
Can saute in the pan: Yes
Can last a lifetime: No
Require AC outlet: Yes
I have used this Mealthy pressure cooker for 6 years. Prior to that I used a Nesco electric pressure cooker since the 1990s. The Nesco’s regulator was damaged, making the unit inoperative. Electric pressure cookers operate differently than stove-top units. They may build to 15 PSI but then cycle between 10 and 12 PSI during cooking. This lowers their cooking temperature, so they cook a bit slower than stove-top units—image from hippressurecooking.com
Hybrid Machines
A few pressure cookers on the market combine their pressure cooking function with a convection oven (air fryer). This allows the user to cook food rapidly under pressure and then brown/crisp it. People who have these machines generally like them. However, they can be bulky and more expensive.
Several companies make hybrid pressure cookers that can also act as air fryers. This allows you to cook something and then brown it quickly. This is the original Ninja Foodi.Another view of the Foodi. The pressure lid is on the pot. You can also see the air fryer lid permanently attached to the cooker.
Conclusions/Recommendations
A pressure cooker is a fantastic and safe cooking gadget. It saves fuel, gets meals on the table 3-10 faster than conventional methods, preserves vitamins, and the food tastes great because all of the volatile aroma molecules are preserved. Meats come out juicy and tender. Vegetables have more vitamins, and rice, beans, and grains cook quickly. You can make entire meals simultaneously without blending flavors with the pot-in-pot technique. These pots will save you time and money; they use little energy while allowing you to cook cheaper cuts of meat.
The American Test Kitchen suggests buying a stainless steel cooker with a broad base for durability and quick sauteing of foods. This is good advice, but you can certainly use an aluminum cooker with excellent results. I have pressure cookers with typically sized bases and may have to brown large amounts of stew meat in two batches. I’m not working in a commercial kitchen, so super durability and saving 5 minutes of browning time are not crucial.
Stove-top pressure cookers offer the advantage of cooking at a full 15 PSI (faster cooking times). They can last a lifetime, be used as a high-quality stock pot, and be operated using many heating sources, from kitchen ranges to camping stoves. They are the perfect cooking tool in a disaster situation. A cooker from Generation One or Generation Two cooks similarly. Remember, if a cooker operates at the same PSI, it will cook the same.
However, I suggest getting an electric pressure cooker for the first-time user. Their ease of use and automatic nature make you more likely to use them. Additionally, dozens, if not hundreds, of websites and YouTube videos make it easy to get up and running.
Hybrid cookers are loved by their owners due to their additional versatility. However, that additional functionality may make an already daunting task even more difficult for a new user. Such an appliance can be purchased later if desired.
Which type of cooker do I use? The answer is “Yes.”.
When I originally conceived this post, I was going to title it “The life changes I made when I retired.” However, like most things I write, the topic evolved. The title then became “Changes that I have made as I have aged.” That was also inaccurate, as some of my life changes started in my 20s and have grown since then. The bottom line is that as an adult, I have slowly become who I am today. Let me share some of those changes with you.
I no longer fear Imposter syndrome.
When I was younger, I received conflicting critiques about who I was and what my abilities were. On one hand, I was told I was stupid, lazy, and useless, while on the other hand, I was told that I was bright, talented, and unique. I reveled in the later critique but didn’t believe it was real. I feared my complementers would discover I was a fraud.
I recall being in college and breaking the curve on tests, thinking I was lucky. After doing this many times, I changed my belief to “I just study harder.” Eventually, I came to understand that I grasped the material better than the average student, which was why I topped the curve. Before you think I’m too grandiose, let me inform you that I have also recognized my weaknesses. For instance, I cannot remember common facts, like a person’s name or a telephone number. Additionally, I have great difficulty putting together a simple children’s jigsaw puzzle.
I no longer feel that I’m an imposter. Instead, I understand that I’m a person with some unique gifts and some significant weaknesses. My goal has always been to exploit my strengths while doing everything possible to turn my weaknesses into strengths. I’m still a work in progress.
I don’t care what people think about me.
When I moved into my house 30 years ago, I tried to be casually friendly towards my neighbors. This effort went reasonably well, and I’m still on good terms with people I met at that time. However, there was one situation where something went wrong. A guy lived half a block from my house, and I had minimal contact with him. We had kids the same age, and I occasionally saw him at the school bus stop or around the neighborhood. When I ran into him, I would greet him with a hello or raise my hand in a wave. Initially, he responded, but then he stopped. He would sometimes visibly scowl if he caught sight of me. If I was face-to-face with him, looked him directly in his eye, and said hello, he would look past me like I didn’t exist. This situation upset and baffled me as I could not think of a reason for this change in his behavior. I felt that I must have done something wrong to create such a reaction, but I couldn’t even remember conversing with him, let alone saying something rude. My concerns eventually faded, and I got past his response (or lack thereof). I never found out why this person went from a casual contact to someone who hated me. However, I no longer care.
In my private practice, I initially evaluated a middle-aged man who needed a new psychiatrist as his old one was retiring. This poor guy was taking a suitcase of ridiculous and repetitive meds. His former doctor had him on multiple tranquilizers, sleeping pills, stimulants, and even opioid pain meds. I told the man frankly that my goal would be to get him off of 90% of the medications that he was taking because only then could I see what he needed. He was furious with me and left my office, never to return. I had to admit that I had a sense of relief when he left, as I knew that weaning such a patient would be as difficult for me as for him. Six months later, I saw him on my schedule and thought, “Oh crap.” I was sure that I was about to get some sort of dressing down because he was so angry when he left the first time.
The man came in, and instead of reaming me, he apologized. He was seeing a new doctor who was happy to continue all of his meds, but over time, he realized that I was the first doctor to care enough about his care to risk losing him by telling him the truth. Over time, I was able to get him off most of his meds and transition him to more appropriate ones. He became a patient for life and continued to travel to my Illinois office after he moved to Ohio.
There are times when I have accidentally offended someone. When things go badly in an encounter, and I am the cause, I want to make it right. However, long ago, I realized there would be people who would like me and people who wouldn’t. Some who don’t want to be my friend will have a valid reason; others won’t. I try to be kind and respectful to everyone, but if that is not enough…so be it. I want to concentrate my energy on those who want to share time with me. For the others, I wish them a happy life, but otherwise, I simply don’t care.
I no longer try to live up to other people’s expectations of me.
Some people think they know how I should behave, what I should do, and how I should live my life. Sometimes, these comments are out of genuine caring and could be considered complements. “You should write a book on that topic,” or “You should practice again; we need good psychiatrists.” At other times, I have been the target of someone’s manipulation, like when a senior medical student wanted me, as a freshman medical student, to take her place on a horrible committee that involved a ton of work and long twice-monthly meetings. I could give dozens of other examples, but they all involve “shoulds.” You should do this, or you shouldn’t do that. Long ago, I realized it was OK to listen to other’s perspectives, but I knew myself better than they knew me. I live according to my expectations, not someone else’s.
I no longer buy into societal norms.
We are constantly being pressured to fit in. As a doctor, society tried to determine how big my house should be, what kind of car I should drive, and what friends I should associate with. When I turned 50, I bought a “doctor’s car,” a Mercedes. I felt pretty cool and accomplished for about a month, and then it dawned on me that the Mercedes was just a box on wheels. After a time, it became a burden due to its poor construction and excessive repair costs. I traded it in for a Honda; a happy day. I no longer need to keep up with the Joneses or the Dr. Joneses. I just want to live my life and be myself.
It took me about a month to realize that my Mercedes was just a box on wheels.
I no longer think I’m unworthy if I’m average at something.
Growing up, I received praise and validation through my academic abilities. This reinforcement led to a pattern of behavior in which I felt that I had to prove my worth by consistently exceeding expectations. That went well beyond schooling. I thought I had to be engaging, intelligent, and funny in social situations. It was my task to make sure that no one was uncomfortable. It was my job to come up with a topic that interested the person I was talking to, not a subject I had an interest in. In my marriage, I felt I had to be the ultimate provider, the man with the plan, who was both in charge yet compassionate and tender, alternating roles as required. I felt I had to prove my worth beyond being a good doctor in my business. For example, I taught myself web design to save the clinic money by designing, building, and uploading a complicated corporate website instead of having the clinic contract a professional.
These characteristics are part of me, but the operative definer is “part.” I don’t always want to be the most competent person in the room, the most engaging, and the most thoughtful. Sometimes, I want to be me. Over time, I have realized I have worth, as all humans do. It is OK for me to allow others to take the lead and be intelligent, thoughtful, and caring. My genuine self is that of a nurturer, but I sometimes need to be nurtured. I am happy to care for the people I love, but I also want to be loved. I can learn new things to help others, but at times, I am the person who needs help.
Sometimes, it feels good just to be good enough.
I no longer feel a need to control others.
When I care about someone, I want to protect them and keep them safe. When my kids were young, imparting my “knowledge” to them was possible. However, they are now adults and have had the benefits of an excellent education, a ton of love and support, and wisdom from both parents. If they ask my opinion, I will happily give it to them. If I see a major disaster on the horizon, I may offer an unsolicited opinion. However, in most cases, I feel my role is to be a supportive listener. This stance goes beyond my kids but requires continuing effort on my part. I’m better at letting go, but I still want to shield those I love from hurt and trauma. I need to remind myself that adults have the right to self-determination.
I no longer have to be everyone’s friend.
There was a time when someone asked me to be my friend, and I would automatically say yes. Many times, these were individuals who recognized that I was a caretaker. The relationship would consist of them using me in one way or another. When I needed their help or support, they would be “too busy.” I no longer want such people in my life. I want mutually beneficial relationships with others, and I would much rather have a small circle of true friends than a massive group of casual friends.
I don’t need to accomplish everything I could have achieved.
I have many ideas and can connect seemingly unrelated pieces of information. In the 1970s, I worked with a team at the U of C, employing a new tool called monoclonal antibodies. We were using these antibodies as a research probe to study Multiple Sclerosis, but it was abundantly clear that they could also be used for clinical medical purposes, targeted cancer treatment being one of them. In medical school, I knew I could become a research doc and advance that (and other) ideas. However, I understood that I wasn’t happy as a researcher and wanted to pursue a clinical path; I abandoned the idea.
I started an multi-media company to educate lay people. My first education DVD received good reviews, but it took me hundreds of hours to create and produce. Although I had ideas for other DVDs, I wasn’t willing to spend every waking hour developing them.
The bottom line is that life involves balance. I couldn’t do it all if I wanted to have a full life. I wanted time to explore hobbies, have time for my wife, children, and friends, and to learn new things. This meant that I couldn’t always accomplish the big stuff. Having a balanced life turned out to be the right decision for me.
I have less need for “stuff.”
When I was younger, I saw the road to happiness and my credit card joined at the hip. I felt envy if I visited someone who had a larger house. “Someday, I will have that too.” The same could be said of anything that seemed better than what I had. Thank goodness that envy ended decades ago.
At that time, I went from a position of envy to a place of gratitude. There will always be someone who has something “better” than me, but there will always be someone worse off, too. Where do I find my happiness? The other day, I walked in a beautiful forest preserve just minutes from home. I brought a nice camera and took random photos of interesting subjects. At home, I made dinner for my family and a friend. We ate and talked and ate some more. It was a lovely day.
Random photo #1Random photo #2
I am so grateful to have good people in my life, that I’m relatively healthy, that I enjoy being creative and learning new things, and that I have so much beauty at my doorstep. There are so many things to be grateful for!
I value these things so much more than stuff.
I don’t worry about the clothes that I’m wearing.
I’m a basic guy. As a practicing doctor, I had to dress the part, and my closet was jammed with dress shirts and such. Recently, I decided to eliminate most of those shirts and almost all of my suits. I only wore suits when I had to, but I discovered that I had 8 of them! I tossed the worn clothes and gave away the nice shirts and suits.
My retirement wardrobe is effortless; I mostly wear jeans with a SmartWool tee or a polo shirt. I love the ease of choosing “one item from column A and one from column B,” and I’m dressed. At other times I’ll wear something fun. Why? Because I can wear what I want when I want to wear it.
Not exactly “doctor regulation clothing” but fun!
I no longer need to be perfect.
In the past, I felt that I needed to be perfect and that I had to have an encyclopedic knowledge of any topic. I would blame myself if I didn’t know something, even when I could not know it. This caused me stress.
I still try to do a good job. However, perfection is not possible. It is a relief to acknowledge that sometimes good is good enough.
I have no problem saying “No.”
In the distant past, I felt that if someone asked me to do something, I would have to say “OK.”
People ask me to do things all the time. I will often say yes, and it feels great to help someone. However, other times, someone wants me to do something I don’t want to do. Those requests can be minor or sometimes highly time-consuming. Long ago, I learned that a simple “No” sans any explanation was the way to go. One minute of discomfort can, at times, save months of agony.
I don’t always have to be productive.
When I worked 60+ hours a week, my free time was minimal. I remember sitting at my desk paying the household bills and feeling guilty that I wasn’t raking the leaves simultaneously. My limited time and excessive demands created an environment where I thought I had to produce something of value 24/7. That was not a healthy place to be.
In retirement, I have found the true joy of being while still doing things. Yesterday, I cleaned out the clothes occupying one foot of my closet, tossed out one large bag of junk from my basement, wrote part of this post, and helped my sister with some computer issues. However, that left time to do many other things, ranging from having coffee with a friend to studying an esoteric and useless topic. Oh, and I also took a nap-and didn’t feel a bit of guilt.
I don’t have a fear of the future.
How many times have I worried about something that never happened? How many times have terrible things happened without me seeing them approaching? The reality is that worry has never been a strategy for success. If I worry about something, I tell myself: Accept what I cannot change, change what I can, and know the difference between the two (paraphrased AA serenity prayer). Life happens. Good things happen. Bad things happen. I aim to live in the half-full glass zone, not the half-empty one. For every bad thing that has happened to me, I have had a dozen good things happen. Every morning brings a new day. My goal is to make the most of that day.
I no longer ignore the small things.
Life is not about a trip to Europe or the purchase of a new home. Those things are lovely but very episodic. Life is about the small stuff: drinking a good cup of coffee, spending time with a friend, having dinner and conversation with my family, going on a walk while intentionally observing all of the beauty around me, and learning something new, even if it has no practical application. There is so much joy in the small things. Why do people ignore these gifts? Not me.
I like cooking/baking and sharing it with people that I love. The Angle Food cake turned out great. My take on cheesy herbal muffins were a bit dry, but they ate them anyway!On another walk, I saw these tiny flowers. I thought they were so pretty that I had to photograph them. It would have been easy to miss them if I hadn’t been looking with intention.
I’m no longer hard on myself.
I have already said that I’m not perfect. That reality permeates every aspect of my life. However, I no longer beat myself up when I make a mistake. I try to learn from it and make it right if appropriate. I’m not perfect, but I’m good enough.
I no longer place unreasonable expectations on my family and friends.
We all want what we want. However, I try to view each close relationship as a gift. I want to have good people in my life who I love and who love me. However, they are individuals and have their own values and needs, which may differ from mine. I make a solid effort to accept them for who they are. However, I intentionally choose considerate people to be in my life. I try to be the same to them, and although we are not perfect bookends, we appreciate and value our connections.
Letting go of the above has made me a better and happier person. Each day is a gift to be celebrated and not squandered.
I started my van life journey very simply. I pushed down the seats of my SUV and slept on an air mattress topped with a sleeping bag. In a laundry basket I had a small cook kit, a stove, a tarp, a flashlight, paper towels, matches, and a few other things. My clothes were in a duffel bag and I kept some food in a cooler and a box. This was all that I needed, and it alerted me to the reality that you don’t need very much to get by. However, I wanted to upgrade which led me to purchasing a Ram Promaster high-top in 2018.
Here I am in 2018 with my Promaster. It was a stock model with nothing in it. I had to add the side and back windows, and just about everything else. My very talented friend, Tom said he would help me build it out but I didn’t want to burden him with such a mammoth task so I found Wayfarer Vans in Colorado Springs and had them install a kit which made the van camping ready. However, I have heavily modified the van ever since with my friend and it has always been a fun way to build something together (I’m the chief screwdriver finder).
Violet’s innards from another angle. In this photo you can see that I had a side window and rear windows installed. I had this done locally at a custom RV/van shop in the city. I’m not very big on driving in huge cities, but I can do it if the motivation is high enough. Wayfarer now offers a lot of customization options, but in 2018 it was up to the van’s owners to get the van ready for modification.
Violet proudly showing off her side window.
One of the first things that we did was to install a roof fan and the solar panels. Both of these things were must for me and I use them on every trip. I have 400 watts of solar which charges my main battery and allows me to operate at almost 100 percent electric. The fan really helps to vent out the hot air and bring in the cool air at night.
Here you can see the vent fan from the inside. This fan can operate in two directions (pulling in air, or pushing out air). If you decide on adding a vent fan I would suggest getting one that can do this.
Here you can see my basic Wayfarer built. Compare this to my SUV photo and you can see that I have gone far up in van life status. The construction is very solid and has stood the test of time for 6 years. The box on the left is supposed to be a boot box, but it became my power station. Note the kitchen with a sink. Although functional, it did not suite my needs as I never really used the sink due to the mess. It had a 7 gallon water tank and a 7 gallon grey water tank that I had to wrestle with, and I didn’t like dealing with smelly grey water. We built a kitchen that better suited my needs. Also note the cavernous under the bed space. It was designed for adventure cargo, like a bike. However, I wanted to organize the space better for general van life.
Here I’m at Wayfarer Vans picking up my newly converted van. It only took them a morning to do what would have taken me a couple of months.
One of our first projects was to build out an under-the-bed storage space (#3). That has been one of my favorite modifications. This allowed a dedicated space for a slide out fridge (#1), as well as baskets that serve as my main pantry (#2).
The second photo shows the storage box from the “garage” end. Everything is very organized and there is still plenty of room for gear.
We opened up the “boot box” and converted it into a power station. My main battery and accessory battery gives me 4KW of power. Enough for just about any tasks that I need. I’m conservative with my power use and rarely dip below 80% battery. I have multiple ways to recharge my battery, but typically the solar panels are enough. I can also charge from my car battery/alternator. Lastly, I have a small gas generator, but I have never had to use it.
Another early project were these puck lights. However, they are also a regret as they are constantly disconnecting requiring me to take down panels to find the short. They use a remote control and I have had to replace the remote module a number of times. Now I more often use other sources of light.
I use every nook and cranny in Violet. Another project was installing a Wabasto gas heater (#1). The heater taps directly into Violet’s gas tank and barely sips any gas. I would say that its output is similar to one of those little electric heaters, which is enough to allow me to camp in the Winter. So far I have been comfortable with temperatures in the teens (Fahrenheit). You can also see my emergency toilet (#3). I have tried a couple of different types and am currently using a collapsible one. I seem to always find an alternate toilet option, but it feels good to have this backup “just in case.” The rectangular box (#2) is a 2000 watt quality inverter that takes power from my car battery and coverts it to AC power. This is an alternative way to charge my house battery when I’m driving. Now DC to DC chargers are popular, but they weren’t when I built out Violet. My solution may be a bit less efficient, but it works fine for me and also gives me an extra source of AC power. I originally had a no-name Chinese inverter that promised high output, but didn’t deliver so I went with a brand-name and I am glad that I did.
I also carry this small power bank which I can charge with a folding solar panel. I can take it out of the van to power devices like my video projector or computer, and use it inside for a convenient way to charge my phone. I like this particular battery bank as it re-charges very quickly. Some similar units charge very slowly. I believe in the motto ABC (always be charging). When I have shore power I like to charge everything to 100%.
A carpet is a must to keep dirt at bay. We cut this one to look like a wall to wall carpet, but it easily pulls out. My son asked why I got this pattern, but when he went camping with me he understood why-it hides dirt!
When I camp alone I almost always boon dock. However, when I’m camping with my wife or my son I will usually stay at campgrounds. Some smaller campgrounds will only have this type of power connector, so it is a good idea to have on board a simple 30 Amp to 20 Amp converter plug. They are inexpensive and can be found everywhere from Amazon to Walmart.
This is what the adapter looks like. I have used it many times over the years to convert a 30A socket into a 20A (typical) socket.
Another thing that Tom and I added was cruise control. It was a simple install and has made long drives a lot easier.
We also added swivel front seats. I have never used the swivel drivers seat, and rarely swivel the passenger seat. However, my wife uses it all of the time. This highlights the fact that what I find necessary, you may not. Hindsight suggests that it is better to build out slowly when you know what you actually need rather than trying to figure everything out in the beginning. You can also see my first attempt at a power station, an enormously heavy GoalZero 1250. I gifted that to Tom and his camping adventures when I upgraded to a lithium system.
A must is a garbage system that can be as elaborate or as simple as you want. I hang a grocery bag on the driver’s arm rest and change it out daily. It may not look great, but it works really well. I have never had a need to upgrade it.
Last summer’s project was to completely re-build the kitchen. I have enough power to go all electric, and I used an induction hob and a small microwave. I also have a capsule coffee pot as well as a small electric pressure cooker. When I’m solo I cook very simply, but when my wife or son are on board I tend to make real meals. I want their experience to be a good one.
This is my old kitchen setup using the Wayfarer kitchen. You can see the sink that I never used. Additionally, I had an induction hob mounted to the countertop which worked well, but took up valuable space. On the right side you see a microwave oven as well as a hassock toilet. I’m constantly changing things around. Why? Because its fun!
This summer Tom and I built a new kitchen that was better for my particular needs. By eliminating the sink, building in the hob and the microwave, and extending the countertop, I added an enormous amount of usable space. As an aside, we harvested the wood for the countertop from fallen trees. Tom used the planks to make flooring for his house, but there was some wood left over and that wood became Violet’s counter top.
In van life you can never have too many fans. There are a lot of small USB fans that are cheap, move a lot of air, and barely use any power. I’ll often use one in conjunction with my roof fan on very hot days.
Another one of my missteps. We installed a water port for the sink, and the sink is now gone. I also installed a power port, but I find it easier to run an outdoor extension cord through the sliding door.
I’m a little mixed on this one, a cellular signal booster. The improvement in cell reception has mostly been marginal, but recently it allowed me to very slowly view some webpages that would not have been possible with just my phone. Was that worth all of the money that I spent for the gadget? I don’t know.
Most of us use our phones to navigate. However, your phone’s GPS app requires a reasonably good cell connection to download maps. Two summers ago I installed a new radio that also has GPS as this unit has all of the maps preloaded. I have been in many places where Google maps won’t function (poor cell reception), but this unit does. This was an expensive upgrade, but you could also just buy an inexpensive dedicated GPS device off of eBay.
I also have an inexpensive dash cam. To be honest, I’m not sure I know how to get the videos off the camera. Fingers crossed that I won’t have to.
I mentioned that you need a light source. It is also important to have a portable light. This USB headlamp does the job for me, but there are many other options available.
A portable radio is a very nice addition. Yes, you have your car’s radio, but that could potentially run your battery down. I think I bought this radio off of eBay (note the Chinese hanzi). I have been in places with little cell signal so I can’t stream, but I can always get radio signals. A portable radio allows me to listen to the news and music when I’m sitting in a chair outside. Surprisingly, I seem to always find a NPR station. NPR has a lot of podcast like shows.
I also have an inexpensive “weather station.” Violet can get pretty hot in the summer heat and pretty cold in the winter freeze. I have found this little gadget informative over the years.
Since I no longer have a sink, you may wonder how I wash my dishes. I wipe off the remaining food with a paper towel, then spray with 100% vinegar, then wipe that off. It works as well as soap and water, but it doesn’t use up any water, and I have no smelly grey water to deal with.
Another addition that I added was this hitch for a bike carrier. Necessary if you want to take a bike with you, otherwise unneeded. Of course you can also pack a bike inside the van, but that can be a hassle.
This may seem like a no-brainer, but having a a decent water bottle is a must for so many reasons.
The simple water system that I have used for a number of years. This carboy holds 2 gallons of water, and I have 2, 3 gallon refill jugs in the van’s “garage.”
It goes without saying that you must have some sort of a first aid kit. I customized mine with things that I use. You can often buy small quantities of OTC meds at dollar stores making it inexpensive to change them out every year or two. I always have a variety of bandages, Motrin, anti-diarrhea meds, anti-histamines, kineseology tape, and other stuff on hand. I usually wind up taking a Motrin several times during any trip. Last summer I managed to poke a very sharp knife in my hand while trying to open a package. I was bleeding so much that I was leaking through band-aids. I taped the wound together with kineseology tape and that saved the day.
Another wonderful addition was a 3″ memory foam mattress pad that I added to the existing Wayfarer pad. I’m a big guy and a side sleeper, so I need the extra cushioning. Installing the pad took about 1 minute and it was a game changer for me.
This steering wheel desk turns Violet into an office on wheels. You can buy plastic ones very inexpensively on Amazon. However, my steering wheel was an odd size and the plastic one didn’t fit flat so we made our own.
When it’s hot and you have no shade you soon realize, “I need some shade!” There are many solutions and I have tried two of them. In the first photo I’m using a patio umbrella adapter on my hitch. That worked fine, but the MoonShade was more compact and did a better job. Neither require any permanent installation.
This may be hard to see, but you are looking at one of my absolutely most favorite things-rain guards! They allow me to keep my windows cracked during the rain and at night. They are an absolute must and take less than 5 minutes to install.
There are many other things that have made my van life easier. Some I use regularly, like a folding BBQ grate. Some things I use on occasionally, like a butane stove that allows me to cook outdoors. Some items I rarely use, but I’m glad that I have them, like a tow rope, traction mats, a tire pump, and a jump starter. Some are just fun, like my Omnia Oven.
I’m a life long camper, have been vehicle camping for a long time, and van camping for 6 years. I’m also a gadget guy so I’m constantly upgrading and changing things as that is part of my fun. I thought I would share some of my gear with you today. Your needs and desires may be completely different from mine. Do your own thing, and HAPPY CAMPING!
In a past post, I wrote about the benefits of vacuum sealers, touching on both external and chamber sealers. Today, I briefly summarize the benefits of vacuum sealing but spend the bulk of this post talking about chamber vacuum sealers, their difference from external sealers, and their benefits and limitations. My goal is to help a potential buyer determine if a chamber vacuum sealer is the right choice for them.
A brief history.
Vacuum sealing was developed in the 1940s and became a common way for grocers to extend the life of foods in the 1960s. During the mid-sixties, a home vacuum sealer was introduced, but it didn’t gain popularity. The Seal-A-Meal brand was launched in the late 1970s, and the FoodSaver brand was introduced in the late 1980s. These machines became popular with the help of late-night infomercials. I purchased my first FoodSaver vacuum sealer in the early/mid-1990s and have been using an external vacuum sealer since that time. Additionally, I have been using a chamber vacuum sealer for over two years. This post is from the perspective of a home cook (me) who has been vacuum sealing for almost 30 years. If you are a professional, your needs may vary.
This is my original FoodSaver from the 1990s. It was built to a higher standard than many new units. It is very basic and manual, but it still works today.
The benefits of vacuum sealing.
Vacuum sealers produce a partial vacuum in a thick plastic bag. The bag is then sealed, and its contents now reside in a very low-oxygen environment. All fungi/mold, as well as many bacteria, require oxygen to grow. A partial vacuum can dramatically slow down microbial growth. Lastly, little critters (like cereal bugs) can’t hatch in a low oxygen environment.
On its own, oxygen degrades food by a process called oxidation. This process makes nuts and grains go rancid. Additionally, oxidation is responsible for turning cut vegetables, like potatoes and avocados dark. Vacuum sealing can dramatically reduce oxidation issues.
A standard method of preserving many foods is freezing. However, poorly packaged frozen foods can suffer significant degradation. Moisture can enter a package and form ice crystals that can destroy the texture of foods. Improperly wrapped foods can cause dehydration (called freezer burn), which can ruin a food’s flavor. Vacuum sealing can effectively eliminate these two issues.
Dry foods, like rice, can stay fresh and bug free when vacuum sealed and kept at a cool temperature.
Meats and cheese can stay fresh 3-5 times longer when vacuum sealed and refrigerated as opposed to being refrigerated alone.
Delicate foods like strawberries will stay fresh longer in a vacuum container.
Frozen foods, like vacuum-sealed meats, can retain their high quality for years in the freezer.
Sous vide-style cooking involves cooking vacuum-sealed foods in a temperature-controlled water bath.
Lastly, chefs will often use a vacuum sealer to marinate foods in minutes instead of hours.
What vacuum sealing is not.
Vacuum sealing is different from canning. You will still need to refrigerate or freeze foods that normally require this. Vacuum sealing is complementary to other methods of food preservation and not a substitute.
A word of caution.
Be aware that some foods, like raw mushrooms and bananas should not be vacuumed sealed as they will spoil faster. Vacuum sealing foods like raw onions and cabbage produce off-gasses that can degrade vacuum sealing bags. Additionally, certain bacteria found on some vegetables don’t require oxygen to grow (they are called facultative anaerobes). Reducing oxygen levels by vacuum sealing can give these pathogenic bacteria a competitive advantage by eliminating all of the oxygen using bacteria, allowing them to grow faster. Cooked vegetables are usually fine to vacuum seal.
What do I vacuum seal?
I buy meats and cheeses in bulk, divide them into meal packets, and freeze them. Likewise, I buy dry goods, like rice, in large sacks, divide them up into smaller packages, and store them in my cool basement. I’ll vacuum seal opened packages of bacon or cut avocados and refrigerate them. They will stay fresh much longer than when refrigerated alone. I’ll blanch vegetables, like carrots and celery and vacuum seal and freeze them in one dish portions so I always have vegetables to make a soup or stew. If I have leftover homemade soups, stews, and casseroles, I’ll vacuum seal and freeze individual portions for a quick meal at a later date. You can “boil-in-bag” or microwave vented vacuum seal bags for no-mess reheating.
I’ll buy a cheap roasted Costco chicken, take the meat off the carcass, and freeze it in a vacuum sealed bag for a future easy-to-make casserole. I have used vacuum canisters to keep delicate items, like strawberries, fresh longer. I also have vacuum-sealed non-food items. For instance, I’ll vacuum seal my car keys and phone when I go canoeing or kayaking. Vacuum sealing has dramatically reduced waste in our home and reduced food costs by allowing us to buy in bulk.
Using my Vevor chamber sealer to process bulk meat.Packaged in individual meal portions and now ready for the freezer.
External vs chamber vacuum sealers.
External vacuum sealers are the most common home sealers and are typified by the FoodSaver brand. Food is placed in a specially textured plastic bag whose open end is placed in the machine. A small vacuum pump sucks the air out of the bag, which is then sealed by a heating strip.
Advantages of an external vacuum sealer.
These devices are inexpensive, with consumer units ranging from under $100 to several hundred dollars. Many are lightweight and small; they only take up a little counter space and are easily stored. They are straightforward to use. Since the bags are external to the unit, you can create very long bags (using special rolls of vacuum-sealing bags) to vacuum seal bulky foods. Many units have a port that allows you to vacuum seal external canisters and mason jars. However, you will need to buy additional accessories for these functions.
Disadvantages of an external vacuum sealer.
Although you can buy heavy duty pro-machines, most home devices are inexpensively made, and they will often need to be replaced every few years if heavily used. Most commonly, the bag-sealing heating element will fail, but the plastic vacuum pumps can also falter. These problems are less of an issue for a home cook as their sealing needs are relatively low, but can be significant for high volume users, like hunters who process game, green thumbs who need to preserve a backyard harvest, and preppers who store large quantities of vacuum sealed foods. Additionally, home external sealers often have a limit on how many bags they can seal in a row and how long you have to wait between sealing cycles. Professional external sealers are built to run nearly continuously, but they will be bulkier and cost significantly more than a home unit.
External vacuum sealers require specially engineered textured bags to operate, as the bag’s ridges allow air to be sucked out of the bag. FoodSaver branded bags can be expensive. Off-brand bags will cost less but can still be pricey.
Moist foods, like fresh meats and liquids, require special handling as liquids can get sucked into the sealing zone, which can cause a seal to fail. If the operator is careless, a machine may suck up the liquid into its internals and foul it.
The pumps on these machines are much smaller than on a chamber vacuum and will produce less of a vacuum, which could result in shorter long-term food preservation. That could be an issue for preppers who store foods for very extended periods of time.
Chamber vacuum sealers.
Once the purvey of commercial operations, like grocery stores and restaurants, these types of vacuum sealers are now becoming popular in the home market.
How are chamber vacuum sealers different from external vacuum sealers?
External sealers suck the air from the bag along with other things like meat juices. A chamber vacuum sealer removes the air from the chamber where the bag resides. Nothing is sucked out of the bag as both the bag and the chamber are at the same pressure (there is no pressure differential between the bag and the chamber). While under vacuum, the bag is sealed, and then a valve opens the chamber to the outside atmosphere. This new pressure differential collapses the bag.
The seal created with a chamber vacuum sealer is typically thicker than the thin seal from a FoodSaver device.
When most users first try a chamber sealer, they find it entertaining to watch the process as the end is dramatic. If you watch YouTube videos, most operators will gasp, followed by saying something like, “Wow, that was cool,” as the bag instantly shrinks and clings to the food.
Advantages of chamber vacuum sealers.
These are heavy duty machines that can be used continuously without stopping. They have much larger vacuum pumps, which are often made of metal instead of plastic. These pumps can pull a greater vacuum than external sealers, so they provide the greatest preservation protection for individuals who need very long term storage. The machines’ cases are typically made of stainless steel and have a commercial feel.
The internals of a chamber vacuum sealer are more robust than on a cheap home external vacuum sealer. You can see the metal, heavy duty vacuum pump in the lower right corner.
Most chamber sealers allow some type of programming so you can tailor them to your needs. Some will allow you to create and store multiple programs. For instance a program for maximum vacuum, and another one for delicate foods. Multiple programs are handy in commercial operations, but they are less important for the home cook as it is very easy to adjust parameters, like vacuum time, on all chamber vacuum sealers.
Most Chamber sealers will allow you to adjust the sealing parameters. Some will even store those parameters as programs. This later function is less important for most home cooks as it is easy to adjust parameters, like vacuum time, on the fly. My machine can control the same things as its larger sibling, but it has a slightly different interface.
Chamber Sealers are able to use the same type of textured bag that external sealers use, but they are designed to use much less expensive chamber sealer bags that cost around the price (or less) of a ZipLoc freezer bag. As of this writing you can buy 8″ x 10″ bags in bulk for less than four cents a bag.
You can use expensive FoodSaver type bags in a chamber sealer, but they also work with non-textured chamber sealer bags which are significantly less expensive.
Many machines have replaceable parts, so you can swap out a failed sealing bar instead of having to buy a new machine.
Some machines are capable of vacuum sealing Retort bags, which can then be pressure canned making their contents shelf stable for long periods. Retort bags are the flexible canning bags used in MRE’s, soft packs of tuna, and other foods.
Chamber vacuum sealers are fantastic for sealing moist and liquid foods. You can seal liquids, like soups, without any special preparation. However, all liquids should be at room temperature or cooler to prevent them from boiling over.
Why do liquids boil in a vacuum sealer?
The boiling point of a liquid is determined by atmospheric pressure. Water boils at sea level at 212F/100C, but at 10,000 ft, it boils at 200F/93C. This is because the atmosphere is thinner at 10,000 feet and it pushes down on the liquid with less pressure. Under a near vacuum there is very little pressure, so warm liquids can boil at room temperatures. To avoid a mess, only seal liquids that are cool to the touch or chilled. You will still see some bubbles, but the bag won’t boil over. You need to allow space for those additional bubbles, so only fill bags with liquid halfway.
Disadvantages of a chamber vacuum sealer.
Chamber vacuum sealers come in different sizes, but all of them are big, bulky, and hefty. Some manufacturers are now making smaller home units, but they still will take up a lot of counter space.
Since they are big, it is best to have a dedicated spot to park them. These are not gadgets to retrieve from the basement when needed.
I have a dedicated spot for my chamber vacuum sealer. It is too heavy to move and by having it accessible I am more likely to use it. Next to it is an external vacuum sealer that I now rarely use. I store other appliances on this cart. What can I say, I love gadgets!
Chamber vacuum sealers can only vacuum seal items that will fit inside of their chamber. You can’t vacuum seal a huge rack of ribs. However, you can cut up the ribs into smaller chunks and seal them.
The initial cost of a chamber vacuum sealer is higher than a home external sealer. Tabletop professional machines start around $1000. However, many off-brand chamber vacuum sealers are now available in the US market. You can find a number of off-brand machines in the $220-$500 range.
Brand name vs. no-name.
Is a $1000 branded machine better than a $250 off-brand model? Well, sure. The fit and finish will likely be better. It is also probable that a branded machine will use a higher-quality vacuum pump. Additionally, a known company is more likely to stand behind its product and is more likely to carry replacement parts. Many branded machines are spec’ed for commercial operations and near continuous use.
Are off brand machines junk?
Not in my estimation. I have been using an inexpensive Vevor chamber vacuum extensively for over two years, and it has worked very well. I have had no problems whatsoever. However, your mileage may vary. Like most things in life, spend extra money for peace of mind; pay less for a bit more risk but possibly a better value.
Oil pump vs. dry pump?
Many commercial-style chamber machines use an oil vacuum pump. Special vacuum pump oil has to be added to the pump when you get the machine. This is a straightforward process. Oil pumps may last longer, can be quieter, and are likely to pull a stronger vacuum than a dry pump. Vacuum pump oil traps moisture, so you have to change out the oil every now and then. How often? That would depend on the humidity of your environment and the moisture of the food that you are vacuum-sealing. One company advises changing out the oil every 800 hours of operation. It takes less than a minute to vacuum seal something, but for math’s sake, let’s say it takes 1 minute. 800 hours x 60 = 48,000 seals. That is a lifetime of seals for a home cook! Other manufactures advise changing the oil every 500 hours of operation, or changing the oil based on a calendar cycle. Follow your manufacture’s guidelines. If your oil looks cloudy or milky, it is full of moisture, and it is time to change it.
Out of the box the Vevor unit gives you vacuum pump oil, and replacements for the heating strip. You need to add vacuum pump oil when you get a chamber sealer that uses an oil vacuum pump. It is a very easy process. Oil should be filled between half and three-quarters full. You determine this by monitoring the oil in a round window.
The advantage of a dry vacuum pump (also called a maintenance free pump) is that it requires no maintenance and a machine will likely cost less. A dry pump in a chamber vacuum sealer will pull a higher vacuum than a dry pump in an external vacuum sealer. Both oil and dry pumps are OK for a home user.
Bag vs. roll?
Chamber vacuum sealers always use premade bags of various sizes. Premade bags are much easier to use than having to make a bag from a bag roll. They are inexpensive to buy, so there is no reason to use a roll of traditional textured bags.
Can you use a bag roll in a chamber sealer if it is leftover from your external sealer? The answer is yes, as long as the bag that you make fits in the chamber. To create a bag, run a cycle, and seal the end of the bag just like you would on an external machine. Some home oriented machines will include a seal button making the task even simpler. FoodSaver styled textured bags and rolls will vacuum seal in a chamber vacuum, but they are more expensive, so it makes little sense to buy them. Unless you are space-constrained, I would suggest that you keep your old external vacuum sealer to use up your bag rolls.
Can you vacuum seal a bag outside of a chamber vacuum sealer’s chamber?
There are a few YouTube videos that show people hanging a textured FoodSaver-type bag outside of a chamber sealer chamber. However, I have never tried this, and this ability may be specific to particular machines. If I needed to do this often, I would use a standard external vacuum sealer. There is one machine, the Wevac CV10, that is a combination of a small chamber vacuum sealer and an external sealer.
Does size matter?
I already talked about the limitation of a chamber’s size, but it should also be noted that the chambers in this class of vacuum sealers come in different sizes, and the sealing bars also come in various lengths. The bigger the unit, the bigger the chamber, and the heavier the unit’s weight. My Vevor unit has a 10″ sealing bar and can accommodate a bag up to 10″ wide and around 13″ long. Some larger tabletop units can accommodate 12″ wide bags that are 14″ -16″ long (depending on the machine). Larger commercial units have sealing bars that are longer than twelve inches and can also accommodate huge bags.
Here is my machine (left) with a 10″ seal bar, and a machine with a 12″ seal bar. You can see that the 12″ seal bar machine is significantly larger. This top-down view demonstrate the size difference better. Both take up a lot of counter space, but the larger machine would dominate most kitchens. A view of the two machines from the rear.
For home use the largest realistic size of a chamber sealer would have a 12″ sealing bar, and these chamber sealers are huge. Units with 10″ sealing bars are often adequate for home purposes.
This huge machine has 4 sealing bars, and two separate vacuum chambers. Great for speedy production, but not for home use.
Some units have a chamber that is deeper, or have a dome that is larger to accommodate thicker cuts of meat. My inexpensive Vevor’s chamber is around 2″ deep, with an additional 1″ or so available in the dome. I have vacuum sealed all sorts of foods, including medium/smaller-sized whole chickens (with a little pushing on the lid).
My Vevor has a chamber that is 2 inches deep and a dome that adds an additional 1 inch. This size has been adequate for just about any job that I needed to do.The model with the 12″ seal bar has a chamber that is 2 3/4 inches deep with a dome that is around 2 inches, yielding almost 5 inches of space.The larger machine (far) has a dome that is around 1″ deeper, giving the user a little more chamber space. A view of the vacuum chamber of the larger unit. The bag is placed over the tan colored sealing rod which will melt/seal the bag once vacuum is achieved.
Chamber vacuum bags come in many sizes, and it is possible to use bags smaller than the maximum bag limit of a machine. I mentioned that my machine can handle a 10″ x 13″ bag, but I also use 8″ x 12″ and 6″ x 10″ bags for smaller items. The smaller the bag, the cheaper its unit price.
There are now chamber machines designed for home use. These machines are priced in the $300-$800 range and usually use a dry-type vacuum pump instead of an oil vacuum pump. Their footprint and height are generally smaller than a commercial machine, but they will still require counter space. Their aesthetic is more of a home appliance as opposed to an industrial restaurant tool. Since their overall dimensions are smaller, their chamber may be smaller in width, length, or depth (or all three). Naturally, this will impact the size of the chamber bag that you can use, which will vary from machine to machine. These units may have additional consumer level features like a seal function. Many of these home machines have an accessory port to vacuum seal external items, like vacuum canisters. Pro-machines often do not have accessory ports.
Home machines are smaller, and will likely have smaller chambers.
Should you toss out your external vacuum sealer and buy a chamber sealer?
I kept my old external sealer for those times when I needed to seal exceptionally long items. It has no resale value, and I have the space to store it. However, I use it very rarely. My chamber sealer is extremely easy to use, creates a greater vacuum, has a much thicker seal, handles liquids and moist food better, and uses bags that are significantly less expensive than FoodSaver-type bags.
With that said, if you are happy enough with your external sealer, keep it. There are tricks to do some of the things that a chamber sealer can do. For instance, in the past when using my external sealer I would freeze individual portions of soup in “Souper Cubes” and then remove them from that container and vacuum seal them in a FoodSaver type bag for storage. Additionally, I would vacuum seal powdery foods, like four, in a paper bag and place that bag in a FoodSaver-type bag. Sucking flour into a traditional external machine will ruin it.
It is possible to vacuum seal liquids with an external vacuum sealer. Here, I froze some soup in a “Souper Cube,” removed it from that container and sealed using an external sealer. Note the textured bag needed for these machines.
Some brands.
VacMaster, LEM, Avid Armor, Weston, and JVR are popular brand-name machines. I have a Vevor machine. Vevor is a company that buys Chinese made products and rebrands them. I have been delighted with my chamber vacuum sealer from Vevor. It works well and has performed flawlessly over the more than two years that I have owned it.
The bottom line.
I am a fan of vacuum sealers of any type. They will save you money and are well worth the investment. A chamber vac is especially useful for high volume users, individuals who want to preserve their foods for extended periods of time, those who often seal liquids, chefs who do sous vide cooking with moist meats, cooks that frequently marinate foods, home users who easily want to vacuum seal powdery foods (like flour), and geeks like me. In addition, chamber seal bags are significantly less expensive than the bags needed for external vacuum sealers.
Many YouTube influences will tout the fact that, in the long run, a chamber vacuum sealer will save you money over an external sealer as the bags are less expensive. I just checked the Walmart website, and a ten-count of a 12.5″ x 11″ FoodSaver branded bag is selling for around $1.50/bag. You can buy a 10″ x 13″ chamber bag for only 6.5 cents a bag. Using this information, you could quickly offset the cost of a chamber vacuum based on bag savings alone. However, that isn’t the complete story as you can buy off-brand textured bags for a lot less than $1.50/bag, and to get the 6.5 cent price for the chamber bag, I would have to buy them in a case of 1000 bags. Nevertheless, chamber bags are significantly cheaper than textured bags, making it more likely that you will use them for basic tasks, like keeping half of an avocado fresh. Avocados are pretty expensive, so who wants to throw out a cut one? Since chamber bags are cheap, I’ll also bag and freeze relatively inexpensive foods, like a partially used jar of pizza sauce (pouring the sauce into a small chamber bag). This saves a bit of money, reduces food waste, and offers the convenience of having the sauce on hand when I need it to make a late night emergency pizza.
I sat at a back table looking forward. The room was marginally lit. My friend Ralph was at the front of the room. He was celebrating a milestone birthday and giving a little speech in this cozy private room of a lovely restaurant. Most events make me want to take pictures, and this was no exception. I pulled out my iPhone 14 Pro and touched the trigger button. A second later, I captured the memory, and the photo looked pretty good.
I have used smartphones and smartphone cameras long before the iPhone existed, and let me tell you that those early cell phone cameras were horrible. They had low resolution and grainy images even with good light, and the image quality transitioned to unusable in dim light. However, people loved having a camera on their phones and the industry listened. Photos taken on recent smartphones are amazing. Sharp, vibrant, and clear even when the conditions are somewhat poor.
Some of these improvements are based on better hardware, but much of the credit goes to the super computing power of the phone’s microprocessor. That same chip that allows you to watch high resolution YouTube videos is used to maximize every single photon that hits a pixel on the phone’s tiny camera sensor.
My iPhone 14 Pro has a few extra features including fixed wide angle and telephoto lenses, as well as several computerized effects. For instance, I can take a portrait shot with my phone, and its computer will artificially blur the background to make the image look more professional.
Why would anyone need a dedicated camera when they carry a phone that not only takes great photos, but also allows instant posting to social media? The answer is that most don’t, a cell phone is all that they need. However, that is not always the case as suggested by the next photo.
This is a photo taken with my iPhone of the 2024 total solar eclipse. Now that I have told you what it is, you can probably decipher the picture. However, it looks nothing like some of the photos that were shown on the news or on social media. Those photos were sharp, clear, powerful, and amazing. My photos looked more like a Rorschach ink blot. If my phone was so good at taking a picture of Ralph, why couldn’t it take a good photo of the eclipse? The answer is simple. Phones use settings designed to take a snapshot. When you want a picture that is not a snapshot, most phone cameras fall short for many reasons.
Who should consider a dedicated camera? Here are a few examples.
-The parent who wants to take in-focus photos of their active toddler.
-The animal owner who likes taking photos of their pets.
-The parent who wants the best close-up action shots of their kids when they are playing sports.
-The drama coach who wants clear and in-focus photos of their actors on the stage.
-The bird watcher who needs to document their finds.
-The person who wants to take photos of the Milky Way.
-The person who wants to take highly detailed photos of their collection of tiny things, like coins or butterflies.
-The person who needs to take close-up photos of objects that are far away.
-The person who has to take pictures in adverse weather conditions.
-The person who must take flash-free pictures in dark places, like a nightclub.
-The person who wants to use a sophisticated flash setup for professional-looking portraits of family and friends.
-The person who documents their hobby by taking photos of moving trains, racing cars, or jets taking off.
-The person who makes their living taking pictures (journalists, wedding photographers, nature photographers, etc.).
-The person who sees photography as a form of artistic expression.
-The person who wants to turn photography into a hobby.
-and anyone else who needs to take photos that are beyond “Instamatic” snapshots.
However, that is likely only 10% of the photo-taking population. The remaining 90% will do just fine with their point-and-shoot phone. If you are in that 90%, you can stop reading now (whew!).
If you check the prices of cameras you will be struck with sticker shock. It is possible to spend many thousands of dollars on a high end camera body, and a magnitude more than that on camera lenses. For most, these prices are completely out of reach, but there is a solution. First, we need to talk a bit about what makes a camera a better choice in some situations, as well as what different types of cameras are available.
How are cameras different from a smartphone?
Most cameras can be used in a fully automatic mode, just like a smartphone. Additionally, some consumer-level cameras have presets for common scenarios like action shots or low-light photography. Also, their functions can also be fully customized. Let’s look at some of the functions that can be adjusted:
Shutter speed
You can adjust the shutter speed on a camera. A slow shutter speed allows more light to enter the camera’s sensor, so you can get a bright image even under low light conditions. A fast shutter speed freezes action, making it perfect for sporting events and fast-moving subjects.
On this camera the shutter speed is adjusted by the knob on the right. Note, that there is also an automatic setting where the camera automatically picks a shutter speed.
Aperture
You can adjust the aperture of the camera’s lens. A wider (more open) aperture lets in more light for flash-free nighttime photos. Wider apertures can also keep the subject in focus while blurring the background (shallow depth of field). That style is trendy in portrait photography. A narrower aperture makes sure that everything in the photo is in focus. Think about photographing a large group of people standing in rows three deep. A narrow aperture would make sure that everyone would be sharply in focus.
On this camera you can select the aperture right on the lens. You can also have the camera do this automatically by selecting “A.”This camera uses a different way to select aperture (Av) and shutter speed (Tv) using a control dial and a thumb wheel control. The “A+” selection puts the camera into a fully automatic mode where the camera decides on all of the settings.
ISO
You can adjust how sensitive the camera’s sensor is to light, this is called adjusting the ISO of the camera. Keeping the ISO low preserves the most detail in a photo, but raising the ISO allows you to take noise free pictures in darker conditions with a slight loss of detail.
Different cameras adjust ISO in different ways. The dial on the right has two functions. The main numbers adjust shutter speed, but the dial behind the little window adjust ISO. Again, there is an “A” setting that will adjust ISO automatically.
Exposure triangle
Shutter speed, aperture, and ISO work together to control how much light enters the sensor. Together, this group is called the exposure triangle. You can greatly change the look of your photograph if you know how to adjust these parameters. With a few simple clicks your photo can go from a snapshot to a magazine cover level image, and it is a lot easier than you think. Note, that your camera can adjust all of these parameters automatically, or it can adjust just some of the parameters automatically. As an example, you can have your camera adjust its shutter speed and ISO, while you only adjust the aperture.
Use a faster shutter speed to freeze sporting action.
Use a wider aperture to blur the background in a portrait.
Use a higher ISO to take a flash free image in a dark venue.
Or adjust all three to find the perfect balance between effect and image quality.
External controls
All cameras have dedicated controls that allow you to change various settings or set the camera to automatic. Pro-level cameras have many external buttons and knobs, making changing these settings on the fly very easy.
Pro cameras put all of the controls front and center allowing the user to easily change a setting at a moments notics.
The hot shoe
The hot shoe is a connection on the top of a camera that allows the user to electronically connect an external flash to a camera and transform the photo of a subject from a “deer in headlights” look to a polished pro image. Using on and off camera lighting creatively can produce amazing pictures.
A hot shoe is a connection point on the top of the camera that allows the user to connect things, like an external flash or flash controls. An external speedlight can bounce the flash and give a portrait a much more professional look.
Changeable lenses
Many cameras allow the end user to change out lenses. There are lenses for any need, from super powerful telephoto lenses to lenses designed to get up close and personal with tiny objects (like bugs). I often use a wide-angle lens when I take professional architectural shots as it opens up the space and makes rooms look bigger. I also use a medium telephoto lens when taking portraits. Its long focal length and wide aperture allow me to keep the subject in focus while creating a creamy, blurred background.
There are dozens of different lenses available for cameras. Above (from left to right) you can see a tilt-shift lens for architectural photography, A medium zoom lens, a super zoom lens, a 35 mm prime lens, and a 50 mm prime lens.I use a wide angle lens when taking interior shots to give the space a more open look.
Accurate focusing
Cameras can focus very quickly in tricky light situations. Some older cameras were specifically designed to be great at focusing and were used by sports and wildlife photographers. Many newer cameras have phenomenal focus, even in their consumer-level offerings. Along with focusing is tracking (the ability to follow a moving object and keep it in focus). The same rules apply here.
Manual focusing
There are times when it is best to focus the camera yourself. If I could have manually focused my phone when taking the eclipse photo, it would have turned out significantly better. The majority of cameras have some form of manual focusing; however, pro cameras make manual focusing an easy option.
Low light performance
Cell phones use computer calculation tricks to make dimly lit photographs look clear. Cameras do this too, but also have much larger sensors which have the ability to gather significantly more light. For instance, a full-frame sensor has over 30 times more surface area than the tiny sensor of a typical cell phone.
Consumer cameras vs. Professional cameras.
One way to separate cameras is between consumer-level and enthusiast/professional-level models. Consumer-level cameras are less expensive. They can do many of the things that a pro-camera can do, just not quite as well. For instance, many consumer-level cameras can freeze action as they have a maximum fast shutter speed of 1/4000 of a second, while many pro-cameras have shutters that can operate as fast as 1/8000 of a second, and even faster than that when they are in all electronic mode. Note that you can freeze a human at play at around 1/250th of a second; pro-bird photographers usually shoot at a 1/1000 to 1/2000 of a second, and to freeze a speeding car, you may need a shutter speed of 1/4000th of a second. Shutter speeds faster than 1/4000th of a second are only used for exceptional situations.
A consumer-level camera will have simplified controls. You can often control the same things that you can with a pro-level camera, but you will need to go through additional steps to do this. A pro-level camera has dedicated physical controls front and center, whereas a consumer-level camera may require you to press several buttons or go into the camera’s menu system.
Consumer-level cameras are usually made of some sort of polycarbonate (plastic), whereas pro-level cameras often have a magnesium frame that is coated in a rubbery material. In general, everything from the switches to the shutter mechanism is more robust and built to last longer on a pro camera. Higher-end professional cameras are also weather sealed and can withstand being in the rain (within reason). Such a situation would short out a consumer-level camera.
Over time features drift from one group to another. High end features like fast focusing drift down from pro-cameras to consumer cameras, and convenience features like flip out screens drift up from consumer cameras to high end ones.
Is it reasonable to buy an older camera?
Technology in the camera world has advanced rapidly. However, older cameras can take stunning photographs in just about any scenario. An enthusiast/pro camera from as early as 2008 and many consumer-level cameras from a few years after that can take amazing pictures. If someone has special interests, like photographing birds in flight or performers in a dark and smoky jazz club, they may need to be more selective when deciding what older camera they should choose, but those options are out there. Many photographers prefer the photos that come out of older cameras, which some say are more “filmic.” (looks more like traditional film)
What can newer cameras do that older ones can’t?
In the world of photography cameras are always advancing with better specifications and features. For instance, newer cameras may be able to focus at blazing rates or have computerized features like eye detection focusing. However, many older cameras are still very capable. Remember, these cameras were state of the art devices used by professionals who took professional photos. In fact, some professionals continue to use these cameras with great success.
The question of Megapixels.
Older cameras may have as little as 12 MP sensors, while the highest megapixel count of some newer cameras exceeds 60 MP. However, the pixel count doesn’t really matter unless you are wildly cropping images or if you need to print huge photos that will be viewed up close and personal. Photographers have long created large prints using ten and 12-MP cameras. There have been art photos displayed in museums that were taken with a 6 MP camera. In other words, don’t worry about the MP count. Did you know that traditional 35 mm film has a resolution between 12-16 megapixels? Most photos on social media are reduced by the platform to under 2 MP. In the real world, anything above 10 MP will do you just fine. Most newer cameras are in the 20-24 MP range.
Recommended Image size of social media sites:
Facebook photo 1200 x 628 pixels or 0.8 MP
Twitter Profile photo 400 x 400 pixels or 0.2 MP
Instagram Square 1080 x 1080 pixels or 1.2 MP
YouTube thumbnail 1280 x 720 pixels or 1.0 MP
All about sensor size.
The camera sensor on a smartphone is tiny, and the phone’s computer has to do a lot of work to take the information from that sensor and turn it into an awesome photo. Dedicated cameras have much larger sensors. These sensors have greater surface areas so that they can capture more light. Additionally, the larger sensor size combined with the physical properties of the lens used can create all sorts of interesting effects, the most common being bokeh, where the subject is in sharp focus while the background is a soft blur.
Often, the larger the sensor, the more expensive the camera. A larger sensor area means the camera can produce good images when light conditions are low. Additionally, larger sensors often have better dynamic range. There are more levels between absolute black and pure white in the image. However, smaller sensors are constantly improving, and with their improvements, their cameras have also gone up in price. Some smaller sensors now rival some larger ones in the quality of the images they produce. Note that all typically used sensor sizes have the potential to create stunning images, and image quality depends on more than the sensor. The camera’s image processor and the quality of the lens used are just as important.
When quizzed, many professionals can’t determine what size sensor an image came from by just looking at a print made from that image. When they succeed, they use tricks, like looking for the depth of field in an image or other things that consumers would be unaware of.
Types of sensors.
-1″ These sensors are primarily used in high-quality compact and bridge cameras. These sensors have about five times more surface area than a typical cell phone sensor.
-Micro 4/3. These sensors are used by Olympus/OM systems and Panasonic/Lumix cameras. They have around 9 times more surface area than a typical cell phone sensor. Because these brands use a smaller sensor than brands like Nikon and Canon they can make cameras that have smaller bodies and that use smaller lenses. The lenses may be less expensive as they need less optical glass to cover the smaller sensor.
-APS-C. This sensor size is used by many different camera manufacturers because it is at the sweet spot between cost and performance. It has a surface area around 15 times larger than a typical cell phone. APS-C cameras can be smaller and use less expensive lenses than Full Frame sensor cameras.
-Full Frame. Used in flagship cameras, full-frame sensors have around 36 times more surface area than a typical cell phone sensor. Because of this, they often have the best low-light performance and the best dynamic range, and they also can produce the best bokeh. However, they are the most expensive cameras, have the most expensive lenses, and are usually bigger and bulkier than cameras that use smaller (yet very capable) sensors.
DSLR or Mirrorless.
DSLRs are based on an older film camera design that uses mirrors and prisms to share the image from the lens with the image sensor and the viewfinder. Despite being an old design, it is very refined. Mirrorless cameras don’t need this system, as the image that you see is directly sent from the image processor. It is a video image, not an optical one. Your cell phone camera is a mirrorless camera. Manufacturers like Olympus/OM Systems, Panasonic, and Fuji have made mirrorless cameras for a long time. Sony initially built DSLR/SLT cameras, but they changed to mirrorless cameras fairly early on. Canon and Nikon were the DSLR holdouts; however, they recently switched over to all mirrorless cameras.
Early mirrorless cameras had low-resolution displays, slow focusing, and laggy viewfinders. However, that is in the past. Mirrorless technology allows for more bells and whistles. For instance, some cameras can recognize what a moving object is (car vs. person) and track it accordingly.
Both DSLRs and mirrorless cameras can take excellent photos; they are just slightly different technologies. Older mirrorless cameras often use a slower contrast-detection focusing system compared to the lightning-fast phase-detection focusing of DSLRs. However, that has also changed, and now, some high-end mirrorless cameras have the ability to instantly focus on just about anything.
Which DSLR or mirrorless should you buy?
That is up to you. If you are looking for a bargain in a high-performance action camera, you can’t go wrong with an enthusiast/pro-level DSLR. Cameras that sold for thousands of dollars years ago can now be had for a few hundred, and they are still great cameras. Additionally, there are dozens of lenses for these cameras, and they are often sold at much more reasonable prices than lenses for some of the newer camera systems. Nikon and Canon were the DSLR leaders. Both offered cameras that professional photographers loved to use. Both companies switched to mirrorless cameras a few years back.
The new Canon and Nikon mirrorless cameras are absolutely fantastic but expect to spend big bucks to buy one. Additionally, the lenses (which are excellent) use new mounts that are different from their DSLR brethren and are extremely expensive.
Sony cameras have been mirrorless for quite some time and you can buy some of their earlier (and excellent) mirrorless offerings at reasonable prices. Additionally, there are many older Sony branded and third party lenses available on the used market. However, their new cameras are also stratospherically expensive.
Sony, Nikon, and Canon cameras use sensors that are either APS-C (smaller) or FF (full frame) in size. Although they have their differences, both sensor types take excellent images. Older full-frame cameras were better at taking photos in low light than older APS-C sensors. APS-C sensors offered lower cost and greater magnification (crop factor). Newer APS-C cameras are very capable of working in low light.
Fuji has always made mirrorless cameras that have a retro and exquisite style. Fuji designs its own image sensor using proprietary technology. Some say that their sensors produce the most pleasing images, but that is a subjective opinion. I felt that the early Fuji cameras were slow to focus, but they have improved dramatically over the years. Most Fuji cameras have APS-C-sized sensors.
Panasonic and Olympus/OM Systems cameras use a sensor size called 4/3 (or micro 4/3). These sensors are smaller than APS-C but still take great photos. Older cameras with these sensors may not perform as well as larger sensors in low light. They offer a magnification (cropping) factor even greater than APS-C sensors, which could be a plus when shooting distant objects. Their bodies and lenses are smaller (due to the smaller sensor), which makes them excellent for travel and street photography. Their lenses use less glass (smaller sensor) and, therefore, are often less expensive. Panasonic cameras have a more traditional look, while Olympus/OM Systems cameras have a retro look. Both used a focusing system called contrast detection, which could be slower than the phase detection used on DSLRs.
One of my early mirrorless cameras was a 2011 Olympus EPL-2, which used Olympus’s original contrast-detection focusing system. I found its focus reasonably snappy, and the photo quality was excellent. Newer micro 4/3 cameras have great focusing. Micro 4/3 cameras often initiated novel and cool features in their cameras. Things like in-body image stabilization (IBIS), built-in ND (neutral density) filters, and built-in focus stacking. Other camera manufacturers “borrowed” these ideas and have incorporated them into some of their cameras. If you don’t know what these features are, just accept that they are fantastic.
Recommendations.
It is tough to give recommendations as everyone has different needs. However, for the cost-conscious, here are a few suggestions. My focus will be on lower-cost systems that offer high value. I’ll also emphasize still image use. Although some of these cameras can take reasonable video, video is best left for newer cameras.
For sports and wildlife, DSLR cameras like the Nikon D300S, Nikon D500, Canon 7D, and 7D Mark II are good choices, with the newer version performing better than the older one.
The Nikon D500 offers fantastic focusing for action events like sports.
For “Jack of all trades” full frame shooting the Canon 5DII or 5DIII are good choices, as are the Nikon D700, Nikon D600, Nikon D750, and Nikon D800. The Sony A7 II is a more compact mirrorless camera with a full frame sensor. For a less expensive APS-C camera consider the Canon 60D, 70D, or 80D and the Nikon D7000, D7100 models.
Although fairly old technology, the Canon 5D Mark II is a legendary camera that introduced a usable movie mode. The Mark II has been used to film parts of many TV shows and movies, although newer cameras have greater video ease of use and resolution. The Mark II is still a wonderful stills camera.
For a cool-looking around-town contender, check out the Fuji X-T1 or X-T2 or one of the early Fuji X100 fixed lens cameras, such as the X100S or X100T. A fixed lens means you can’t change the lens. The X100 series of cameras have a fantastic lens, but you will need to “zoom in with your feet.”
The Fuji TX-2 is a beautiful camera.
For a versatile smaller camera, the APS-C Sony A6000 could be a good choice. I also like the APS-C Canon M6 Mark II (although its lens mount is now discontinued). I own both of these cameras and usually wind up grabbing the Canon.
The Sony A6000 is a feature packed APS-C camera.I love my Canon M6 Mark II. Its lens mount has been discontinued but you can find many used lenses at great prices.
If you are looking for a quality older camera that is also very capable at shooting video consider the Panasonic GH4 which offered cutting edge video when it was introduced.
The Panasonic GH4 set the standard for modern video recording.
If you are looking for an around town or travel camera consider the Olympus OMD-EM-10 or the OMD-EM-5 (original or second generation). These micro 4/3 cameras have smaller camera bodies and smaller lenses.
Due to its smaller sensor the Olympus OM-D EM 5 Mark II offers a nice compact size.
Naturally, there are dozens of other cameras that could be included in the above list, which is designed to get you thinking rather than trying to influence your decision-making.
An older camera may lack some of the technical bells and whistles of newer cameras, but they are extremely capable and much less inexpensive than newer offerings. These were the aspirational cameras of photographers when they were launched, and photographers produced stunning images using them. Many of these cameras offer up-front controls, making it very easy to experiment and learn.
Lastly, some of these manufacturers make cameras with an even smaller 1″ sensor. However, those are primarily used in pocket and bridge cameras and would need to be the topic of a different post.
Where to buy?
Resellers like KEH, Adorama, and B and H test the used cameras they sell and offer limited warranties. You may pay a little more, but you are assured of a working camera. I have bought used cameras on eBay. However, eBay is more like of a Wild West show, but I have had good luck choosing sellers who have many sales and high ratings. A word of caution. Camera shutters (especially on a pro camera) may function well over 100,000 actuations. However, it is always better to buy a camera with a lower shutter count (75K or less). Also, if a camera looks like it has been through the war, it probably has been, and it is likely not a good choice for a first real camera purchase.
A little bit about lenses.
One of the coolest things about many cameras is that you can change the lenses out. There are so many different types of lenses, from super wide angle to super telephoto lenses. Additionally, there are many specialty lenses. You can use a tilt-shift lens for architectural photography to eliminate perspective distortion (a building that looks as if it is falling away or towards you in the photo). There are also many macro lenses that focus incredibly closely, and these lenses are used to take amazing shots of tiny things, like insects.
Lenses can be extremely expensive, depending on whether they are designed for professionals or consumers. But there is a workaround. Most camera manufacturers have moderate zoom kit lenses that can be purchased with the camera at a good price. These lenses are frequently made of plastic and have limitations. Some have fairly good optics, while others are a bit crappy. You can find many used ones on eBay and other sites for a very good price, and they can help you start your camera journey. Just google to see if a particular lens model is considered good or bad. Don’t buy a bad lens, and don’t expect a kit lens to perform like a professional lens. However, a decent kit lens is very versatile. Ones with limited range (like 18-55 mm) can get you started, but those that have a broader range (like 18-150 mm) may be the only lens that you ever need. Beyond their plastic build kit, these lenses have a variable aperture. The level of light coming in is reduced the more you zoom out the lens. I often use an 18-150 mm kit lens when I’m hiking with my Canon M6 Mark II camera. Its zooming capability gives me a lot of options, and its lightweight plastic construction is easier to carry than an all-metal pro-style lens. Pro-level lenses often have a fixed aperture that is constant throughout the lenses zoom range.
There are also plastic but reasonably good prime lenses (prime lenses have just one focal length, so they don’t have any zoom ability). Many manufacturers make a 50 mm (good for portraits) and a 35 mm (good for general photography) bargain lens, which has much better optics than kit lenses. New, they sell for a couple of hundred dollars, but used, they can be had for less.
A commonly used professional-level zoom lens is the 70-200 mm F2.8 zoom. You often see this type of lens being used by journalists and other professionals due to its great versatility. This is a fantastic lens when you need to obtain a close-up of something, but you are at a distance. For instance, you can shoot your kids’ soccer game or take photos of them performing on stage. As an example, Canon’s version of this lens for their new RF-mount mirrorless cameras sells for an eye-watering $2,600.00! Canon’s older DSLRs use the EF style mount, and a used pro-level EF 70-200 mm F2.8 can be purchased for $500-$600. If you want to save even more money, you could go with a used Canon EF 70-200 F4 (smaller aperture, so it is less good in very dark conditions) for around $450.00.
Just like when buying a used camera it is best to buy from a reputable dealer. However, I often buy on eBay for a better price and have had good results. When you buy a used lens, test it out to make sure that the optics don’t have mold growing inside (bad) and it focuses properly. Return the lens if it is defective and try again.
Remember, lens mounts are specific to a camera brand and can vary within that brand. As an example, Canon’s Full Frame DSLR uses EF mount lenses, while their APS-C DSLR cameras can use cheaper EF-S mount lenses as well as the more premium EF mount lenses. Canon’s new mirrorless cameras use the expensive RF mount. My little Canon M6 Mark II is an orphan model that uses the now-discontinued EF-M lens mount. I know this sounds very confusing, but once you know what lens mount your camera uses (just Google “What lens mount can a XXX use?”), you will be set. It is not difficult at all.
A word about video.
The first high-end stills camera to also take video was the Nikon D90, introduced in August 2008. It was absolutely revolutionary in this regard, but it could only take 5 minutes of video at a low 720p. Cameras rapidly improved, and the next milestone camera was the Canon 5D Mark II, introduced in September 2008. That camera could take 1080p video and has been used to shoot parts of TV shows and even movies. Yet, older cameras have many drawbacks from newer models when it comes to video. For instance, many older cameras will give you better results if you focus them manually when in video mode. If you are very interested in a camera that can take both still images and also has easy video recording, go for a newer old camera, or perhaps spend the extra money for a new consumer-level camera.
Software anyone?
Photo editing software can raise your photos to another level. There is a lot of free or very inexpensive photo editing software out there. If there is interest, I’ll post about that topic.
Final Thoughts.
Buying a used camera will still cost money, but it will be a much smaller investment than buying a new camera while giving you all of the tools needed to up your photography results. These cameras may be all that you ever need, or you may acquire GAS (gear acquisition syndrome) and eventually get the latest and greatest camera of the future. I can’t control your desires.
Some of the new consumer-level cameras have amazing features, great focusing, and fantastic low-light performance. However, they are light both on direct controls and construction. Yet, they will still be more expensive than many of the cameras listed above. However, you do you.
As a Kodak commercial once said, “Share moments, share life.”
A few weeks back I took my son on a school tour. We planned to stay at a hotel for two nights, but I wanted to pack light. I had just done a review on a small power bank that seemed perfect to use as my phone’s temporary charging system. I had tested all of its many features and they seemed to work well. The unit was small, and claimed an impressive 20,000 mAh of power. I felt that this should be enough to fully recharge my phone from zero more than four times.
My phone was at a 50% charge when I plugged it into the fully charged power bank. The next morning my phone was only at 84% charge, and the power bank was at 21%. Clearly, it did not have a 20,000 mAh battery. In fact, it likely didn’t even have a 5000 mAh battery. Yet, the print on its case clearly stated 20,000 mAh. I was upset. However, my motto is “Don’t get mad, confirm or reject your suspicions with hard data.”
Battery banks (AKA power banks) seem pretty straightforward. Bigger mAh units should be able to charge a phone more times. However, my research has shown me that there is no real regulation on battery banks, and that it is necessary to go to extraordinary lengths to figure out the true capacity of any unit. These banks are sealed and you often have to destroy them to get a peek at their actual battery. Battery banks can be branded with bizarre sounding names. The seller can silk screen anything that they want to on the case. If a product gets bad reviews it is easy to rebrand the next batch that they are selling. Additionally, the industry itself gives out confusing information making it difficult to know what you are buying even when a company is reputable. Because I review products I had a number of battery banks that were nearly new for testing. I decided to learn more about the ins and outs about these common products; by the end of my research I was not only disappointed, I was shocked.
Some terminology
Ports: Most battery banks have a complement of both USB A and USB C ports. Many (but not all) USB C ports are bi-directional. You can charge the bank through them and they can also output a charge. Some older models may require you to use a micro USB cord to charge, which can be a bit of a hassle as these cords are now less common.
Metering: Most battery banks have some method to tell you how charged they are. Some will have a 4 LED display, while others will give you a more precise digital readout.
Size: Battery banks come in many sizes. Typically, the bigger the bank the bigger the capacity. However, this is not always the case. Make sure that the size that you pick is compatible with your needs. When traveling abroad I had a small battery bank that I could easily slip in my pocket. I was dependent on Google Maps (which consumes a lot of battery energy). I would have been lost without that power bank, which was so lightweight that I barely knew that I was carrying it.
Recharge times: Some battery banks can recharge faster than others. Sometimes that difference can be dramatic.
Watts: Some battery banks will list watts, for instance 15 Watts or 20 Watts on the front of their case. This indicates the maximum watts that certain ports, or a combination of ports can deliver to a device like a phone. Some phones can accept higher watts and will charge faster. Larger devices, like tablets, may require higher watts to trigger their charging circuitry. I tested the power (watts) output of a few banks and their maximum output was lower than what was listed on the case.
Volts Out: Volts refer to the force of the electrical current. Here is a water analogy: If you are trying to fill a bucket it will fill faster if the flow rate is faster (more pressure). Likewise, a battery will fill faster if the voltage is higher. The standard power output of a USB port is 5 volts. However, some phones are capable of accepting higher voltages. and will tell the battery bank to send it. Note that some battery banks can only deliver 5 volts, so that is what the phone will get. Higher voltage output yields faster charging. As an example, an USB C Power Delivery port can (potentially) deliver up to 48 volts. Note, both your phone and the power bank have to be compatible with the same protocol for fast charging to kick in.
Amps Out: Another electrical parameter. This refers to how much charge is moving through the circuit. Using the water analogy, if you filling a bucket it will fill faster if the diameter of your hose is wider. More amps means faster charging. Your phone will limit the amount of amps that it will accept. An old iPhone AC charger will deliver around 1 amp of power, but newer iPhones can accept up to 2.4 amps so an advanced AC charger will charge a phone faster. Some battery banks can provide higher amps, others can’t. A battery bank will usually list the maximum amps that any given port will provide on its case. Here too, I found exaggerations on several banks.
A phone may tell a battery bank to provide more amps; it may also tell a battery bank to provide less amps than the bank is capable of delivering. Exceeding a phone’s charging recommendation can lead to early phone battery failure, and can even cause a battery to explode.
Lastly, a battery providing 2000 mAh at 2 Amps will deplete faster than one providing 2000 mAh at 1 amp. Higher draws have a negative impact on a battery. That is just the way battery chemistry works.
Watts Law: At this point you may be thinking, “What gives, Mike? First you said that higher volts will charge a device faster, and then you said it was higher amps! Which one is it?” The answer is both, as they work together to calculate power, which in this case we are calling watts.
Check out this equation:
volts x amps = watts (power).
When you increase volts or amps (or both) you will supply more power from your power bank to your device. More power means the unit will charge faster.
mAh (milliamp/hour): A unit that indicates overall capacity of a battery bank. One milliamp is equivalent to 1/1000 of an amp. To use the water analogy, think of a battery as a tank. A bigger tank can hold more water and a bigger battery can hold more charge. Common battery bank sizes are 5,000 mAh, 10,000 mAh, and 20,000 mAh.
Depending on the phone, a typical phone battery can store from 2,500 to 4,000 mAh with some phones having batteries that are as large as 5,000 mAh.
A common misperception is that it is simple to calculate how many times a power bank could recharge a phone by doing simple math. For instance, you think that a 5,000 mAh power bank should be able to recharge a 2, 500 mAh battery twice (5,000/2,500 = 2) . To understand why this is not the case we need to get into the weeds a bit.
If you want skip the sciency stuff then go directly to “The Bottom Line”
Most power banks output around 5 volts (some can deliver higher voltages on demand). However, the lithium battery inside the power bank is only 3.7 volts. The mAh listed on the case uses 3.7 volts in its calculation which gives a higher mAh number.
Here is a practical example for a 5,000 milliamp power bank
Volts x amps = watts (Watt’s law again)
3.7 volts x 5,000 mA = 18.5 watts
However, at 5 volts
watts/volts = amps (Watt’s law rearranged)
18.5 watts/5 volts = only 3,700 mA
Note that the overall power (watts) is the same in both equations, but both the volts and amps have changed.
The 5 volt value is (approximately) 75% of what the 3.7 volt value is. This is the case for all power banks. Because of this confusion I think that it is better to compare Wh (watt hours) of a battery bank when trying to figure out its capacity. A typical 5,000 mAh battery will deliver around 18.5 Wh of power. Some well designed batteries may actually give you a bit more power, but still list 5,000 mAh on their case. Other battery banks go in the opposite direction and overestimate their capacity, sometimes to the extreme.
A decent battery bank should list its mAh, (mili-amp hours) as well as Wh (watt hours) on its on its case. However, some manufacturers greatly exaggerate these numbers.
Many Factors Impact A Battery: Let’s assume that we are going to test a quality power bank. There are losses to consider. The power bank has to convert the 3.7 volts of its battery to 5 volts or higher for the USB port. This results in power loss. The receiving device may also have to do some sort of voltage conversion. That could lead to more power loss. Some cheap gas station charging cables have more resistance than branded ones, and you can have a loss there. Most lithium batteries have a BMS (battery management system) circuit. The BMS circuit can do many things. Two of its most important functions are to regulate the voltage used to charge the power bank (too high of a charging voltage can cause a power bank to explode), and to prevent the battery from discharging completely. Completely discharging a lithium battery will dramatically shorten its life. Therefore, the BMS will prevent further discharging once the battery is at 10-20% of its capacity (depending on the programming of the BMS). That last bit of power is not available to the user. Other factors that reduce the power of a battery include the ambient temperature, and the way that the charger is being utilized. Devices that demand a higher amperage to charge will deplete a battery faster, even if it is providing the same mAh as a unit delivering power at a lower amperage.
The Bottom Line
Unless a power pack is over rated it is acceptable to expect that it will only perform at 60-80% of its rated Wh capacity.
Therefore, a typical 5,000 mAh battery that is rated at 18.5 Wh will only deliver 11.1 Wh-14.8 Wh in real life. If a battery has a tested capacity of at least 60% of its listed capacity it is delivering its stated Wh capacity. If it is lower than 60% the seller is telling a fib.
The Test
I needed to come up with a way to drain and monitor a battery bank in a standardized fashion. Luckily, I’m a nerdy guy who has a bunch of electronic tools lying around the house. I came up with two methods. The first method was more sophisticated, and a bit more accurate. However, some of the no name banks could not recognize the first method and would turn off prematurely. The second method was more crude and was slightly less accurate, but it worked for the majority of the battery banks. That was the one that I used. Remember, your results may vary.
My fancier setup. This USB multi-meter uses a separate power source for its operations which leads to a more accurate final reading (by a bit). However, some of the battery banks that I tested would not recognize it enough to fully discharge the battery bank.Here you can see my better system (top) which didn’t work for all cases, and my cruder system (bottom) which did work. The bottom system should still give enough information to determine the good from the bad.
The test was simple, I fully charged each battery bank and then completely discharged them using my gadget. I compared the actual power output of a power bank with its stated capacity. If the actual output was at least 60% of the stated output the unit passed. Some packs did very well, others were abysmally bad.
Here are the battery banks that I tested.
The results
Battery #1 JRT-Japan (however it is made in China) 5,000 mAh pack. This is an exceptionally thin battery that is sexy as far as batteries are concerned. I have had this battery for a year or two, but only use it rarely. It probably has been charged less than 10 times. It claims an output of 18.5 Wh, but only tested at 7.8 Wh, which is 42% of its stated power. Verdict: FAIL
Battery #2 Dilibird.5,000 mAh pack. I could not test this battery using either of my gizmos due to the Dilibird’s limitations. For a crude test I used the battery bank to charge my phone which was at around 60% charge. Even in this situation the pack would randomly shut off and I would have to re-initialize it. Despite all of my efforts my phone only charged to 97% and the Dilibird went from 4 full bars of power to 1 bar. Verdict: FAIL on multiple levels.
#3 Metecsmartme 5,000 mAh pack. The case on this unit is a nice size. It is very pocketable and fairly thin and light. It claims an output of 18.5 Wh and delivered 14.4 Wh which is 78% of stated capacity. Verdict: PASS
#4 4 Meyin Miusc (no that is not a typo) 20,000 mAh pack. This unit impressed me when I did an initial review. However, it is also the unit that performed poorly when I used it at the hotel. It is the reason that I developed this test. The pack is loaded with features, which include a digital power level, wireless charging pad, and multiple built-in power cords. Additionally, it claims 20,000 mAh of power. It did not list Wh (which battery banks are required to do), but a 20,000 mAh battery calculates to 72 Wh of power. In testing the unit it only provided 8.2 Wh of power, which is an abysmal 12% of stated capacity. Verdict: Despite a lot of bells and whistles it falters in its most important property, battery capacity. FAIL
This battery bank had all sorts of bells and whistles including built in power cords. Impressive on the surface, but garbage in use.
#5 Anker 10,000 mAh pack. This is a fairly slim unit that is easily pocketable. It has outlets for USB C, USB A, as well as a built-in USB C power cord. The USB C outlet is bidirectional. It features a digital power meter. It states that its capacity is 36 Wh of power. In testing it delivered 24 Wh of power, for 67% capacity. Verdict: PASS
#6 6 Veektomix 10,000 mAh power bank. I found this unit in my drawer and added it at the end of my tests (sorry, no photo). This unit is about the same size as the nice Metscmartme, but a bit thicker and heavier. It has a digital display. Ports include a micro USB for charging, USB C which is bidirectional (you can charge here too), and USB A. The small size made me think that this unit overstated its capacity. It claims 38 Wh of power, and delivered 32 Wh, which is an awesome 82% of stated capacity. Best in class. Verdict: PASS
Conclusions
When it comes to power banks it is the Wild West. There is no regulation, and it seems that sellers silk screen whatever values that they want to. Many of the names are bizarre to English hearing ears. It is likely that these brand names come and go so there is little reason for some to establish a quality product.
Expect 60-80% true capacity when buying a decent power bank. However, in my test of 6 units 3 couldn’t even make that level of performance.
Look for a bank with many favorable reviews. Although these can be scammed, it is likely that a well regarded unit with hundreds or even thousands of reviews is legit. Shopping brand names can also help as a company’s future sales can be dependent on present reviews. The Anker unit that I tested passed and is a safe bet, however two lesser known brands performed better. I was especially impressed by the Veektomix. It delivered 82% of its rated power and it did this in an incredibly sleek and compact case.
Lastly, make sure the unit that you buy has the features that you need, including the type of ports as well as the power delivery capability. If you are charging a device that can utilize a higher Amp or voltage output make sure that your unit can deliver it. I think the best units have a bi-direction USB C as well as a USB A port. This combo gives you the most flexibility. If you want a unit for on-the-go use a power bank with a rating of 5,000 to 10,000 mAh should do the trick. Better brands may have better batteries that could offer more charging cycles before they degrade.
Please note that this post is my personal opinion. Testing was done with my available equipment which is not laboratory certified.
Battery Bank and Power Bank refer to the same thing.
Good Luck
Peace
Mike
Addendum: For those interested, I did go try to modify my Amazon review of the Meyin Miusc power bank (#4). I initially gave it a good review as I was impressed by all of its bells and whistles and used it to top off my phone a few times (which worked fine). However, I became aware of its low capacity when I used it in the hotel scenario that I talked about in the first paragraph of this post. When I went back to modify my review the product had been discontinued and was removed from Amazon and so it was not possible to change my evaluation.
As I have aged my memories from the past have faded. This is especially true when it comes to memories of my very early years. Yet, some of those times remain present in my mind.
I attended a CPS (Chicago Public Schools) grade school for Kindergarten and part or all of my first grade. I know that the second part of that sentence makes little sense, so let me explain. It was expected that my parents would send me to our local parochial grade school, St Clare. However, that school didn’t have a kindergarten, so I was sent to the public school for that. I have very distinct memories of attending first grade at the public school, as well as memories of attending first grade at the Catholic school. I’m not sure how all of that happened, but it did happen. Did I have to repeat the first grade? Did they transfer me mid-semester? I graduated grammar school at the appropriate age, so I don’t think I had to repeat the year. It is possible that my parents transferred me mid-year due to their moral convictions or due to peer pressure to “do the right thing.”
It is interesting what I remember from those early experiences. I remember feeling calm as I stood in line at the start of my first day of kindergarten. Suddenly, the boy in front of me started to hysterically cry. After a minute or two I felt the need to cry, as if this was a social expectation. I wasn’t alone and soon the entire line of kids were sobbing in unison. I remember that my kindergarten teacher had a thing for Jergens hand lotion. She kept a bottle in a cupboard with a glass door and would constantly smear the goop on her hands. I recall its almond/cherry fragrance. My mother never used hand lotion, and so I thought that the Jergens was the height of class and sophistication. Who wouldn’t like a teacher who smelled of almonds and cherries? At Christmas time our teacher gave each of us a transparent blue plastic peacock ornament. I proudly hung that ornament on our tree for years, and I still am sad that it has been lost to time.
First grade had its memories. I remember being taken out of the class to be tested. The middle-aged tester was a prim and proper no-nonsense woman. One test involved a series of pictures in rows. Simple objects like a tree or a dog. On one line the first picture was a sled. I knew what it was, but I couldn’t recall the name so I took a logical step. On that line I identified objects backwards, starting from the end of the line and working my way up to the beginning. I felt that giving myself a few extra seconds would allow me adequate recall time. This did not please the tester who scolded me with the racial slur, “What are you, Chinese!” I had never seen an Asian person, so I was perplexed. “No, I’m Slovak,” I replied earnestly. She gave me a harrumph and in a disgusted tone told me that Chinese read from right to left. This was a revelation to me so I explained that I was just extending my time so I could remember the name of…the name of… the sled! The word came to me. We moved on. I am not sure why I was tested, possibly because I was dyslexic or perhaps it was just standard practice. I never heard its purpose, and I never received any additional help, so go figure.
If you know me you will completely understand the next sentence. I have vivid memories of CPS cafeteria food. Mid-morning we were allowed to go down to the school’s cafeteria to buy milk and a snack. In those days food was prepared from scratch by “lunch ladies.” Much of the stuff available was subsidized by the government, so it was very inexpensive to buy. You could get a carton of white milk for two cents, or upgrade to chocolate for three. Naturally, I went the chocolate milk route. You could also buy an unhealthy but delicious snack for a few pennies more. These snacks would rotate and I clearly remember eating half peanut butter sandwiches, crumb streusel coffee cake, peanut butter cookies, and butter cookies. I have very fond memories of those snacks, which I thought were beyond delicious.
My sister, Carol also has memories of those delicacies, but for a different reason. She is 15 years my senior so when I was in first grade she was a college student studying elementary education. She became a teacher for CPS and enjoyed CPS cookies at her respective school. Carol, is now in her 80s, but still loves the buttery and sweet CPS butter cookies as much as I do.
Today, my family and I will travel to my sister-in-law’s place for an Easter Saturday family party. We are all assigned a dish to bring, mine being cheesy chivy potatoes (mashed potatoes with cheese and chives added). Yesterday, my daughter asked me if I wanted to bake something with her to bring to the party as a bonus. She had found a recipe for decorated mini-cupcakes, but I wanted to bake something different. I knew that my sister would be excited if I brought some humble CPS sugar cookies, so that is what we made.
These cookies are extremely simple but delicious. They are firm, but they give way when you bite into them. Your senses are immediately flooded with the creamy luxury of butter, the sweetness of sugar, and the fragrance of vanilla. They evoke happy memories in me, so I thought I would share this easy recipe with you. We doubled the recipe for 70 average-sized cookies. The ones that I remembered from grade school were about twice the size of the ones that we made. Yum!
CPS Sugar Cookies
Oven at 350F
2 sticks butter
⅔ cups granulated sugar
2 cups plus 2 tablespoons flour (scoop the flour into your measuring cup, don’t dip the cup).
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
Pinch salt
-Cream softened butter and sugar until light and fluffy.
-Add the vanilla extract.
-Add the flour one cup at a time until incorporated.
-Distribute dough onto a cookie sheet and flatten with a finger (two fingers for large cookies).
-Bake until the edge of the cookies is golden brown. Don’t overbake, the top of the cookies won’t brown. Bake between 11-15 minutes, check the cookies so you don’t burn them.
-Allow cookies to rest on the cookie sheet until they are partially cool, and then transfer them to an appropriate container. Great with coffee, tea, or milk!
Note: the dough will be very stiff. We used a mixer, which is what I would recommend.
See the photos below for step-by-step instructions.
Cream softened butter and sugar until the mixture is light and fluffy.Add vanilla and mix it in.Do the same with a pinch of salt.Add flour and mix to incorporate. I did this one cup at a time. Note, the batter will be very stiff.Add dough balls to a cookie sheet and flatten with a finger. With larger, more traditional cookies, use two fingers. My daughter dipped her finger in sugar for this process, that is a nice but unnecessary step. Bake until the cookie is set and the bottom and the edges are a golden brown. Don’t over bake. We were surprised that we had to bake for the full 15 minutes for these small cookies. However, ovens vary so keep your eyes on the cookies. They were delicious!
