Category Archives: Cell phone vs. camera

Cell phone vs. camera, iPhone, Photography, Uncategorized

Want To Upgrade From A Cell Phone Camera? Consider A Used DSLR Or Mirrorless Camera!

January 21, 2026 Dr. Mike

Are you interested in taking better photos? Are you feeling the limitations of your cell phone’s camera?

High-end mirrorless cameras have become the standard for photography in 2026. However, advanced models can be incredibly expensive, and their lenses can cost significantly more than the camera body itself. Fear not, there are high-quality, less expensive options if you know where to look.

This Canon R5 Mark II is an incredible camera, but it also comes at an incredible price: $3899 for the body only. Lenses for this camera can cost more than the body. Yes, any photographer would be thrilled to own an R5II, but the vast majority of amateur and professional photographers would do just fine with a used camera for pennies on the dollar.

This 70-200 mm lens has fantastic quality. But do you want to pay $2999 for a single “RF” mount lens that works with the camera shown above?

This 100-300 mm lens is a wildlife photographer’s dream, but for most, it will remain a dream at $10,599.

Cell phone limitations

Modern cell phones take excellent snapshots. If you just want a photo to commemorate an event, or you want to text a friend an image of an item you’re considering purchasing, most cell phones will do the job.

You may wonder how they can take such pleasant pictures, given that phone image sensors are tiny. Many of their abilities are due to the powerful microprocessors in phones, which are capable of doing computational photography. Additionally, some phones offer wide-angle and telephoto options, making them even more versatile.

However, despite their technological prowess, cell phones are ultimately limited by the physical size of their tiny sensors and the lack of controls. It is possible to go beyond a point-and-shoot experience with some phone cameras, but doing so can be awkward and clumsy. Controlling a phone camera for anything other than a standard shot can range from difficult to impossible.

Advantages of a dedicated interchangeable lens camera

The image sensor is the silicon chip that receives light from the lens and converts it into an electrical signal that the camera’s microprocessor can understand. The area of a full-frame camera sensor is over 50 times that of a cell phone sensor, and smaller camera-sensor sizes, such as APS-C (crop sensor) and Micro 4/3 (MFT), also have substantially larger sensor areas than a cell phone’s sensor. A larger sensor area can gather significantly more light than a tiny one, resulting in better low-light performance and a wider dynamic range, which is the ability to capture many tone gradations between light and dark areas of the image. Additionally, larger sensors have physical characteristics that can create photo effects, such as a natural-looking background blur (bokeh) that pleasantly separates the subject from the background. Phone’s computer-created bokeh often looks synthetic, not natural.

Cameras are designed for one purpose only: to record images. Because of this, they are very ergonomic for this function.

Pro-level and enthusiast cameras have many physical controls that let you adjust every aspect of image capture.

Many cameras have robust weather sealing, making them usable under weather conditions that would destroy a cell phone.

Just about any aspect of picture taking can be easily controlled with a pro-level or enthusiast camera.

-Shutter speed can be increased to freeze a moving object.

-The lens opening (aperture) can be adjusted to make a background buttery soft or razor sharp.

-The sensor’s gain (ISO) can be altered to increase or decrease the camera’s sensitivity to light.

Dedicated cameras can do photo-centric tasks such as taking multiple images at different exposures. These photos can be combined in-camera or in software to create a high dynamic range (HDR) photo, preserving details in both bright and dark areas. As an example, if you take a photo of an interior with a brightly lit window, both the room and the window will be properly exposed.

This HDR image of a kitchen remodel properly exposes both the kitchen and the windows. If this were a simple shot, the windows would be “blown out,” appearing as bright blobs of light.

Dedicated cameras make it easy to use accessories, such as an external flash or a tripod.

Cameras with interchangeable lenses open up enormous possibilities. A wide-angle lens can capture expansive interior shots; a telephoto lens can magnify a tiny object, such as a bird in flight; and a macro lens can image a butterfly in detail. The possibilities are endless with a camera that lets you change lenses. Some lenses are “fast” as they let in a lot of light, making them ideal for shooting in dark places where a flash would be distracting and inappropriate, such as a church or a nightclub. Other lenses, called tilt-shift lenses, are designed to correct the proportional distortion that occurs when shooting tall buildings. There are other specialty lenses that are designed to perform other functions, too. Different lens types allow you to take photos that would be impossible with your cell phone camera.

Many dedicated cameras are built to a rugged standard far beyond that of any phone.

Pro-level vs enthusiast level

Many camera companies offer a line of cameras that range from casual to professional-level models. Pro-level cameras are built to the highest standards and typically offer the best that a camera company has to offer. Enthusiast-level cameras are one step down, offering many of the same capabilities as a pro-level camera, but with less robust components, slightly reduced specifications, and (sometimes) fewer control surfaces (knobs and dials). However, they can still be excellent and will deliver 90-95% of what a pro-level camera can. An enthusiast user may use their camera on a shoot three or four times a month, while a professional may use their camera “hard” every day. An enthusiast-camera may not be as durable as a Pro-camera, but it will likely have less “mileage” on it, which, at times, can make it a better choice.

This Nikon D7200 is an enthusiast-level camera that is loaded with features. It has an APS-C-sized sensor and offers excellent image quality. On eBay this used camera was only $349.

Advantages of the RAW format

I usually shoot in the standard JPEG format, but I sometimes shoot in RAW when needed. All pro-level and enthusiast cameras can shoot in both JPEG and RAW. RAW is a data format that is converted to an actual image using photo software. The RAW format allows for much greater post-shot manipulation, including the use of noise-reduction software. I have taken images shot in dark environments that had a lot of digital noise and made them usable by running the RAW files through my photo editor’s noise-reduction software.

Types of cameras

DSLR

SLR (Single Lens Reflex) film cameras were introduced in the 1930s and became the de facto standard for all cameras. These cameras used a prism and a flipping mirror to bounce the image from the lens to an eyepiece. The mirror would snap out of the way when the shutter was pressed, exposing the shutter and film to light. The advantage of an SLR camera was that you could exactly view what the lens was seeing before you took the photo.

Digital SLR (DSLR) cameras are similar to SLR cameras but use a sensor chip and electronics instead of film. The first professional DSLRs emerged in the 1990s, with Nikon introducing the first practical DSLR in 1999. Consumer-affordable DSLRs were introduced in the early 2000s, with the first sub-$1000 DSLR introduced in 2003 (the Canon Digital Rebel), making this technology available to hobby photographers.

I bought my first DSLR in 2003, a Canon 300D, known as a “Digital Rebel” in the US. It was the first sub-$1000 DSLR ever and had amazing capabilities for its time. However, its technology is now very dated, and this camera is not recommended for purchase.

Since DSLRs used the same form factor and controls as SLRs, it was easy for photographers to adapt to this new technology. These cameras became the standard for professionals in the 2000s.

DSLRs are developed along model lines, with simpler, less expensive versions offered to consumers. Pro models feature more durable construction, weather sealing, better controls, and more advanced specifications. Pro models from as early as 2008 can still produce professional-quality images that could be printed in a magazine today. However, every year cameras advance with ever-better autofocus, low-light performance, and dynamic range. Cameras have also increased their megapixel (MP) counts, with some super-resolution DSLRs reaching 40-50 MP. However, excellent photos can be taken with MP counts as low as 12 MP using a pro camera like a Nikon D700 (introduced in 2008). Many consider 16 MP just fine for most any work, while most newer cameras sport a MP count between 20 and 30 MP.

The Nikon D700 was introduced in 2008 and only has a 12 MP sensor. However, it is still loved and used professionally, especially by portrait photographers as it produces beautiful images that resemble film. This one was found on eBay for around $250. Its original price was $2999.00.

Sony produced a DSLR-like SLT (Single Lens Translucent) product line that was officially discontinued in 2021. However, Sony heavily moved towards mirrorless cameras starting in 2013. Canon and Nikon abandoned the DSLR format around 2018-2019 in favor of professional mirrorless cameras, ending the DSLR era. The only company that still makes DSLR cameras as of this writing is Pentax. Pentax makes good cameras, but they hold a tiny market share.

Mirrorless Cameras

Point-and-shoot mirrorless digital cameras have been around since the mid-1990s, but they were simple in design, had tiny sensors, and offered little customization. More serious mirrorless cameras were introduced around 2008, using an MFT-sized sensor. I had an early MFT camera, and it took fantastic photos, but it was more limited than a DSLR in that its sensor was less capable in low light, and its focusing system, called contrast detection, was slower than the systems on DSLR cameras (called phase detection).

This Olympus OMD10 IV is a mirrorless camera that uses the MFT format. It is tiny but very capable, and is a perfect travel camera. I found it on eBay for $447.

This Sony A6000 uses an APS-C sized sensor. It was introduced in 2014 but is still an excellent camera in 2026. It was listed on eBay for $399.

However, now all common sensor sizes are available in mirrorless designs, and advances in processing and sensor design have dramatically improved low-light performance and focusing in these cameras. Many now outperform traditional DSLRs. Current high-end mirrorless cameras offer fantastic low-light performance, unbelievably fast autofocus, excellent displays, and great video performance. However, they also come with a very high price tag, and the lenses for these cameras can sometimes exceed the cost of the camera itself.

Lens mounts

Every camera brand uses its own lens mounting system, which is incompatible with other brands’. The only exceptions are Olympus and Panasonic MFT cameras that use the same mounting system. Within a brand, different systems use different mounts. For instance, Canon DSLR cameras use the “EF” mount, while their new R mirrorless cameras use an “RF” mount.

This Canon 24-70 mm lens is for Canon’s newer RF mirrorless cameras. It sells for an eye watering $2399. A 24-70 mm lens covers about 95% of shots a typical photographer takes, making it versatile.

Here is the same lens used, but for Canon’s DSLR or “EF” mount. It was only $597 on eBay. That is 1/4th the price!

About sensor size

Professional and enthusiast cameras typically come in three sensor sizes. I’m excluding the fourth sensor size, medium format, because the vast majority of photographers don’t use it, as it can be extraordinarily expensive.

-Full Frame. This is the largest commonly used sensor size and the most expensive of the common three sensor sizes. The sensor size is roughly the same as 35 mm film. Generally, this sensor size offers excellent low-light performance and dynamic range. The physics of this large sensor make it the best at producing a blurry background, a common practice when doing portrait photography. Full-frame cameras tend to be the most expensive, and their lenses are also more expensive than those for other formats, since they require larger glass elements to accommodate larger sensors. This sensor size can be found in both DSLRs and mirrorless cameras.

This Sony A7 Mark II is a full-frame sensor mirrorless camera that was introduced in 2014 at a bargain price of $1700.00. It can be found on eBay for $440.

The Canon 5D Mark III was introduced in 2012 at $3499. It is a pro-level camera used by many professionals. Loved by all types of photographers from wedding to local paper sports shooters. I found this one on eBay for $403.

-APS-C (crop) sensors. These sensors are about 2.5 times smaller than a full-frame sensor. Yet, some perform nearly as well as a full-frame sensor. They are less expensive to produce, and crop-sensor-specific lenses are also less expensive because the glass elements used are smaller. Crop sensor cameras have a smaller field of view, so images appear magnified. For this reason, they can be a better choice for shooting distant objects, such as birds in flight or sporting events from the sidelines. This sensor size can be found in both DSLRs and mirrorless cameras.

-MFT sensors. Almost 4 times smaller than a full-frame sensor, these sensors can still offer outstanding image quality. They can have good low-light performance, but not as good as a full-frame or some APS-C sensors. However, their smaller size does have some advantages. Camera bodies are smaller, as are lenses. They have a larger cropping factor than even APS-C sensors, making images appear even more magnified. Cameras with these size sensors are popular with bird photographers, vacationers, and nature photographers, and also have a place with some sports photographers, as their smaller size can be easily carried while offering great images and a higher perceived “magnification” at the same telephoto length compared to the other two formats. MFT sensors can only be found in mirrorless cameras.

Lens mounts

Every camera brand uses its own lens-mounting system, which is incompatible with other brands’. The only exceptions are Olympus and Panasonic MFT cameras that use the same mounting system. Within a brand, different systems use different mounts. For instance, Canon DSLR cameras use the “EF” mount, while their newer R mirrorless cameras use the “RF” mount.

Why consider a DSLR camera in 2026

Flagship DSLR cameras from as early as 2008-2009 can offer stunning images. Older pro-level DSLR cameras can hold their own for more static photography, such as wedding, portrait, architectural, and corporate photography. However, later versions of DSLRs have ever better autofocus, low-light performance, and dynamic range. These newer DSLRs are perfect for fast-moving sports, low-light concert photography, and nature shots such as birds in flight. More recent pro-level DSLRs can be great choices for all types of photography, including fast-moving subjects.

DSLRs offer the level of control and flexibility to shoot just about any subject, and pro models/enthusiast models are built to last and even withstand a bit of abuse.

The Canon 7D II was introduced in 2014 as an APS-C format camera for fast action sports and wildlife shooting. It had an excellent focusing system and a fast burst rate. The original cost was around $1800, but it can be found on eBay for about $349 in 2026.

The Nikon D500 replaced the legendary Nikon D300 in 2016 with an original cost of $2000. The D500 is an all-rounder with an emphasis on shooting fast-moving subjects. This APS-C camera is currently being offered on eBay for $340.

The Nikon D750 is a full-frame DSLR that was introduced in 2014 as a pro-grade camera. It originally sold for $2300, but this copy can be had on eBay for $462.

The camera industry has shifted to mirrorless, so many photographers have ditched their DSLRs for the latest and greatest mirrorless options. You can buy used pro-level or enthusiast DSLRs for a fraction of their original price. Additionally, their lenses are also being sold at fire-sale prices. It is possible to put together a pro-level kit, including a top camera and a few nice lenses for less than the price of a new pro-level mirrorless camera body.

This graph from mpb.com shows the decline of DSLR sales.

This is the Canon 5D Mark IV. It was introduced in 2016 for $3499 and can now be found on eBay for $700-$800. It is a pro-level camera that offers a full-frame sensor and a host of pro-features. This is the camera that I use for much of my professional work in 2026. It is a joy to use.

A kitchen remodel shot using the 5D Mark IV.

A corporate/portrait shot using the 5D Mark IV.

How about an older mirrorless camera?

Mirrorless cameras have become superstars over the last few generations, and their capabilities have exceeded those of DSLRs. Early mirrorless cameras could take excellent photos, but their focusing performance was not on par with DSLRs. However, they were often much smaller as were their lenses, making them great travel companions. Their images and capabilities were significantly better than phone cameras.

I bought my first mirrorless camera in 2011, an Olympus EPL-2. It took fantastic photos. I had no complaints using this MFT-format camera, and I thought the focusing was good. However, its early contrast detection system could not compete with a DLSL phase-detection autofocus system. Newer MFT cameras have excellent auto-focus.

Mirrorless cameras from around 10 years ago offered better focusing, low-light performance, and more control surfaces. These cameras can be had at a good price, especially those that have MFT or APS-C sensors. You can find used MFT lenses at reasonable prices. Some lenses from older APS-C mirrorless cameras can also be sensibly priced.

Newer mirrorless cameras are more like computers in a camera case, as they are so sophisticated. New lenses are very expensive, sometimes more than the camera body itself. New mirrorless cameras are fantastic, but most of us don’t need their super-high level of performance.

But what about video?

Early digital cameras were primarily photography tools. The first DSLR to record video was the Nikon D90, introduced in 2008, but it could only record a short 5 minutes of video at a fairly low resolution. As time has gone on, the video capabilities of digital cameras have improved, with some new cameras offering amazing focus-tracking and up to 8K video. If you need strong video performance, you will need to buy a more recent camera. Depending on your needs, you can still find used cameras that offer decent focusing and high-resolution video, even if they are several generations old. Make sure that you check your camera’s specifications and watch a review before buying if you are primarily interested in using your camera for video work.

Why consider an older mirrorless camera in 2026

By going back a few camera generations, you can get a very high-quality camera for a fraction of the cost of a new mirrorless camera. Very early mirrorless cameras will not offer the speedy focusing and low-light performance that you may want. However, many pro-level and enthusiast mirrorless cameras from around 10 years ago will. Compared to mirrorless cameras, a pro-level DSLR from as far back as 2008 can deliver excellent images. Naturally, the more modern the camera, the better its specifications.

Conclusion

Cameras have been evolving, and every few years, there has been a leap in performance. However, pro-level cameras from as early as 2008 can still produce stunning magazine-level images.

Enthusiast-level cameras will be slightly less capable than a pro-body, but may have lower shutter counts. Some of these, like the Nikon 7200 (introduced in 2015) and the Canon 80D (introduced in 2016), are very capable cameras.

Shots that would be absolutely impossible to shoot with your cell phone are within reach of dedicated cameras. You don’t need to take out a second mortgage to buy a camera that will produce photos that are significantly better than your cell phone. The cameras that photographers drooled over a few years ago are now available at a bargain price.

When buying used gear, avoid cameras that look like they have been through a war. Try to buy a camera with a relatively low shutter count, let’s say below 50K-75K actualization. However, even with higher shutter counts, a camera may still have years of service. High-end pro cameras have been known to have working shutters with 300K actualizations. Avoid cameras with any signs of moisture intrusion or mold.

When it comes to lenses, avoid cloudy or internally moldy lenses. If you are buying a zoom lens, it should extend smoothly. Light scratches on the outside lens element are usually OK, but avoid deep scratches.

For both cameras and lenses, check all buttons and dials to the best of your ability. If possible, take some test shots. I have bought cameras from eBay with good results, but it is a bit riskier. I always check the seller’s rating and avoid sellers who have listed only a few items. A good seller will accurately rate a camera, so read the description carefully. I have heard that people can get good deals on Facebook Marketplace, here too, ask questions, and test the camera if possible. Resellers like KEH and MPB inspect their cameras, provide reliable assessments, and offer a limited warranty. You may pay a bit more, but you will have peace of mind if you go with a professional reseller. If possible, ask if a seller will allow you to return a camera if it is not working properly within a few weeks after purchase.

For most, a pro-level or enthusiast DSLR offers the most value. However, if a smaller size is important, one could consider an older-generation mirrorless camera, as they can also be had at a good price. With a bit of creativity and practice, an older camera can do just about anything a new one can. Practicing on an older camera will teach you everything you need to become a proficient photographer. Remember, it is the photographer’s skill, not the camera’s newness, that matters. Don’t listen to influencers who are being paid to get you to buy cameras. Most professionals don’t change their cameras based on the latest and greatest; many are still using older cameras and churning out great work. I was a guest at a wedding where the photographer was using two cameras: a Canon 5D, introduced in 2005, and a Canon 5D Mark III, introduced in 2012. I saw his work, and it was stunning. He knew how to use his cameras!

Images are mine, eBay sellers’, or various web pages, and are used for educational/entertainment purposes only.

Cell phone vs. camera, iPhone, technology

I Just Got An iPhone 16 Pro Max! My Impression? Meh

January 8, 2025 Dr. Mike

I remember when one of my training supervisors got a car phone. He told me, “You wouldn’t believe how much time it saves me, Mike. I return all my calls while I’m driving home!” I was pretty stoked about the technology. How amazing it would be not to have to hunt for a slimy public phone when I needed to return a page. “When I get a real job, the first thing I’m going to do is have a car phone installed,” I said to myself.

That opportunity came during my first year as an attending physician. A Christmas bonus from my boss covered the high $2000 price, not for a car phone but for an even more fantastic phone I could carry.

I recall the excitement that I felt when I purchased it in 1988. It was a Panasonic and roughly the size of a box of cigars. The phone had a separate handset and was powered by a lead acid camcorder battery. It was so heavy that its strap would hurt my shoulder if I had to carry it more than a block, and its only abilities were making and receiving phone calls. Yet, people would stop me on the street and ask, “Is that a phone?” When I nodded, they sometimes gasped and uttered, “Wow,” under their breath. It was incredible, and I felt cool having it.

I thought I was pretty cook carrying around my Panasonic “mobile phone.”

After a few years of breaking my back, it was time to upgrade, but I can’t remember to what. I’m sure it was one of those candy bar-style phones, as they were much smaller and lighter. Sometime during the mid-1990s, I got a Motorola StarTec flip phone, one of the skinny ones that easily could slip into my pants pocket. I felt that I was riding on the cutting edge of technology.

This flip phone was state-of-the-art when I bought it in the late ’90s. Mine was a cool “putty” color.

I had a few other phones in the 2000s, but their memory has faded.

During that same period, I used electronic organizers called PDAs (Pocket Digital Assistants) and went through a series of them, including several from Sharp. I eventually landed on a Handspring Visor that used the Palm operating system. That device was terrific, as it easily synced to my computer and could run useful programs, many of which were free. What would it be like to combine the features of my PDA with a phone in one little box? I pondered. Others obviously thought the same thing, and a few years later, smartphones hit the market.

I had a few Sharp PDA-style organizers. They looked pretty cool, but you lost all of your data if the battery went dead. Plus, they were a pain to backup on a computer.

One of the doctors I knew told me about his Palm Pilot, and I bought a Handspring Visor, which ran Palm OS. Wow, that was a great device. It was small, efficient, could run programs, and had a matching app for my computer. I enjoyed using it.

You may think Apple invented the smartphone, but that is untrue. Apple was late to the game, introducing its first iPhone in 2007. Before that time, most smartphones had physical keyboards, and Apple’s keyboardless design was so unique that then-CEO of Microsoft Steve Ballmer ridiculed it, saying, “There’s no chance that the iPhone is going to get any significant market share.” He was obviously wrong.

I had a primitive and clunky Windows CE smartphone and then an early Android phone from HTC. The latter would spontaneously reboot itself right during a phone call. The HTC was so terrible that I started to refer to it as a dumbphone.

I had a Windows CE Smartphone similar to this one. It looked cool, but its software was super clunky. I thought the phone used a light version of Windows, but that was in name only. It ran its own OS which was pretty terrible.

I upgraded to this HTC phone, which used an early version of Android. I researched the phone, and its initial reviews were great. However, it had hardware problems and would constantly crash, often in the middle of a phone conversation.

Patients would come into my office and show me their new iPhones. They were as proud as if they were telling me about a fabulous trip abroad or their new Mercedes. Even the early iterations of the iPhone were spectacular. Where my dumbphone took grainy photos, their iPhones did a decent job. Things we now take for granted, like watching a YouTube video on a phone, were utterly unique and impressive. During that time, Apple had an ad campaign emphasizing what an iPhone could do. For every problem, there’s an app for that, the commercials said. Many other smartphones of the day seemed to be works in progress, but the iPhone had its act together. It was a next-generation device.

People were so proud of their new iPhones that they would pull them out and show them to me.

I eventually gave up on my dumbphone and bought an iPhone. I can’t remember which version, possibly an iPhone 3 or 4. I was already using a Mac, and purchasing an iPhone solidly transformed me into an Apple fanboy. I followed iPhone news and rumors the way that some follow sports teams. I was not alone, as people would wait overnight in line to get their hands on the latest model. It seemed like every version was more impressive than the last.

My first iPhone looked something like this.

I joined with the others, buying a new phone every 2-4 years, and each time, I was amazed at the model’s meaningful advances. I’m a photographer, and the cameras got better and better. Newer phones worked on updated cell frequencies, allowing me to call from more remote places. The phones seamlessly integrated with my Mac, permitting me to start a project on one device and finish it on another. The phones had ever-improving GPS to get me to my destination despite my poor sense of direction. Video calling was available on other devices, but it was pretty awful. Apple’s FaceTime worked well. An iPhone could record excellent video, so I could leave my camcorder behind when attending my kids’ events. The advantages continued; I felt like I was carrying a miracle in my pocket.

Although many of the advances were software-based, they were fueled by ever more powerful and sophisticated hardware.

I traded in my iPhone 10 for an iPhone 12 Pro Max. The new phone had three rear cameras, giving me regular, wide-angle, and telephoto lenses. That flexibility allowed me to leave my pro camera behind, even when traveling. It was a significant advancement. However, there was something concerning about that phone. It was of a lower build quality than my previous iPhones. At one point, the battery swelled for no reason and cracked the screen. Then, the lightning connector failed, causing me to upgrade to an iPhone 14 Pro Max. A phone that I have used until last week. The iPhone 14 also had significant improvements over previous versions. Notably, It could connect to satellite emergency services if it was out of cell coverage range. I travel to remote places that lack cell coverage, making that feature highly desirable.

I did not intend to replace my iPhone 14 Pro Max; however, I noticed its lightning connector was starting to fail. I was also aware that my battery was degrading faster than the batteries on previous models. I pondered if Apple was practicing a little planned obsolescence.

My 14 Pro Max had an excellent trade-in value, so I decided to upgrade my phone before the port worsened or other things started to break, as they would lessen the amount of trade-in cash I would get. I now have an iPhone 16 Pro Max. Is it the game-changer that previous generations were? I would say no. This phone is two generations beyond my last phone; it is more advanced on paper. It has better hardware, a bigger screen, extra buttons, and Apple Intelligence. The camera is also different, and the faster processor allows for a few more software tricks. However, with this iteration, the advancements don’t translate into performance differences that impact me in any way. Additionally, the software changes, like Apple Intelligence, seem more like novelties I had already used via other AI outlets. I’m sure that at some point in the future, Apple Intelligence will be the bomb, but by then, my 16 Pro Max will be outdated.

My new iPhone works great, but its new features don’t wow me like past versions of iPhones.

In the US, around 60% of phone users have an iPhone. Yes, new iPhones continue to offer new capabilities, but for most, they are unnecessary or unwanted. We generally text, call, FaceTime, use GPS, take photos, and do other things that have been available for generations of phones.

I don’t need AI to summarize a three-sentence text message or make a more adorable emoji, and having an extra camera button won’t improve my life. I don’t think I’m alone in my apathy. When was the last time you saw a news report of people waiting all night for the Apple store to open so they could be the first to get a new iPhone?

I’m sure Apple knows this reality, so they have moved towards subscription services. Now, you can rent your news, music, health app, TV shows, and cloud storage by paying Apple’s never-ending monthly subscriptions.

I wonder if they are cheaping on their parts, as my last two phones had major failures within a few years. That would be a shame, as one of Apple’s hallmarks is the quality of its products. Android phones are now very sophisticated, and decent Android phones can be bought at reasonable prices. Switching to Android would be inconvenient, but it would hardly be impossible.

With all of the above, you have probably guessed that my opinion of my upgrade is “Meh.” I’m sure that there are things that I will eventually appreciate, like changing the Lightning port to USB C, and I may even like Apple Intelligence if it can subsequently improve Siri’s responses. However, it offered nothing that my old phone couldn’t deliver.

Should you update your old iPhone for a new one? If you are happy with the functionality of your old phone, no. If it isn’t holding a charge, you may want to consider replacing the battery to give it new life. Phones are expensive, and now that they have become commonplace, there is no longer any status to have the latest one on the block. Will all of this impact Apple’s market share? I don’t know, and I’m not too concerned. I’m sure Tim Cook is working on options for Apple. Monthly subscription to rent your iPhone? Oh wait, that is already being done; it is called a cell phone plan.

Peace

Mike

Images from various websites are being used for educational purposes only. The above post is my personal opinion.

Cell phone vs. camera, Uncategorized

Is Your Cell Phone’s Camera Good Enough?

April 26, 2024 Dr. Mike

I sat at a back table looking forward. The room was marginally lit. My friend Ralph was at the front of the room. He was celebrating a milestone birthday and giving a little speech in this cozy private room of a lovely restaurant. Most events make me want to take pictures, and this was no exception. I pulled out my iPhone 14 Pro and touched the trigger button. A second later, I captured the memory, and the photo looked pretty good.

I have used smartphones and smartphone cameras long before the iPhone existed, and let me tell you that those early cell phone cameras were horrible. They had low resolution and grainy images even with good light, and the image quality transitioned to unusable in dim light. However, people loved having a camera on their phones and the industry listened. Photos taken on recent smartphones are amazing. Sharp, vibrant, and clear even when the conditions are somewhat poor.

Some of these improvements are based on better hardware, but much of the credit goes to the super computing power of the phone’s microprocessor. That same chip that allows you to watch high resolution YouTube videos is used to maximize every single photon that hits a pixel on the phone’s tiny camera sensor.

My iPhone 14 Pro has a few extra features including fixed wide angle and telephoto lenses, as well as several computerized effects. For instance, I can take a portrait shot with my phone, and its computer will artificially blur the background to make the image look more professional.

Why would anyone need a dedicated camera when they carry a phone that not only takes great photos, but also allows instant posting to social media? The answer is that most don’t, a cell phone is all that they need. However, that is not always the case as suggested by the next photo.

This is a photo taken with my iPhone of the 2024 total solar eclipse. Now that I have told you what it is, you can probably decipher the picture. However, it looks nothing like some of the photos that were shown on the news or on social media. Those photos were sharp, clear, powerful, and amazing. My photos looked more like a Rorschach ink blot. If my phone was so good at taking a picture of Ralph, why couldn’t it take a good photo of the eclipse? The answer is simple. Phones use settings designed to take a snapshot. When you want a picture that is not a snapshot, most phone cameras fall short for many reasons.

Who should consider a dedicated camera? Here are a few examples.

-The parent who wants to take in-focus photos of their active toddler.

-The animal owner who likes taking photos of their pets.

-The parent who wants the best close-up action shots of their kids when they are playing sports.

-The drama coach who wants clear and in-focus photos of their actors on the stage.

-The bird watcher who needs to document their finds.

-The person who wants to take photos of the Milky Way.

-The person who wants to take highly detailed photos of their collection of tiny things, like coins or butterflies.

-The person who needs to take close-up photos of objects that are far away.

-The person who has to take pictures in adverse weather conditions.

-The person who must take flash-free pictures in dark places, like a nightclub.

-The person who wants to use a sophisticated flash setup for professional-looking portraits of family and friends.

-The person who documents their hobby by taking photos of moving trains, racing cars, or jets taking off.

-The person who makes their living taking pictures (journalists, wedding photographers, nature photographers, etc.).

-The person who sees photography as a form of artistic expression.

-The person who wants to turn photography into a hobby.

-and anyone else who needs to take photos that are beyond “Instamatic” snapshots.

However, that is likely only 10% of the photo-taking population. The remaining 90% will do just fine with their point-and-shoot phone. If you are in that 90%, you can stop reading now (whew!).

If you check the prices of cameras you will be struck with sticker shock. It is possible to spend many thousands of dollars on a high end camera body, and a magnitude more than that on camera lenses. For most, these prices are completely out of reach, but there is a solution. First, we need to talk a bit about what makes a camera a better choice in some situations, as well as what different types of cameras are available.

How are cameras different from a smartphone?

Most cameras can be used in a fully automatic mode, just like a smartphone. Additionally, some consumer-level cameras have presets for common scenarios like action shots or low-light photography. Also, their functions can also be fully customized. Let’s look at some of the functions that can be adjusted:

Shutter speed

You can adjust the shutter speed on a camera. A slow shutter speed allows more light to enter the camera’s sensor, so you can get a bright image even under low light conditions. A fast shutter speed freezes action, making it perfect for sporting events and fast-moving subjects.

Aperture

You can adjust the aperture of the camera’s lens. A wider (more open) aperture lets in more light for flash-free nighttime photos. Wider apertures can also keep the subject in focus while blurring the background (shallow depth of field). That style is trendy in portrait photography. A narrower aperture makes sure that everything in the photo is in focus. Think about photographing a large group of people standing in rows three deep. A narrow aperture would make sure that everyone would be sharply in focus.

This camera uses a different way to select aperture (Av) and shutter speed (Tv) using a control dial and a thumb wheel control. The “A+” selection puts the camera into a fully automatic mode where the camera decides on all of the settings.

ISO

You can adjust how sensitive the camera’s sensor is to light, this is called adjusting the ISO of the camera. Keeping the ISO low preserves the most detail in a photo, but raising the ISO allows you to take noise free pictures in darker conditions with a slight loss of detail.

Different cameras adjust ISO in different ways. The dial on the right has two functions. The main numbers adjust shutter speed, but the dial behind the little window adjust ISO. Again, there is an “A” setting that will adjust ISO automatically.

Exposure triangle

Shutter speed, aperture, and ISO work together to control how much light enters the sensor. Together, this group is called the exposure triangle. You can greatly change the look of your photograph if you know how to adjust these parameters. With a few simple clicks your photo can go from a snapshot to a magazine cover level image, and it is a lot easier than you think. Note, that your camera can adjust all of these parameters automatically, or it can adjust just some of the parameters automatically. As an example, you can have your camera adjust its shutter speed and ISO, while you only adjust the aperture.

Use a faster shutter speed to freeze sporting action.

Use a wider aperture to blur the background in a portrait.

Use a higher ISO to take a flash free image in a dark venue.

Or adjust all three to find the perfect balance between effect and image quality.

External controls

All cameras have dedicated controls that allow you to change various settings or set the camera to automatic. Pro-level cameras have many external buttons and knobs, making changing these settings on the fly very easy.

Pro cameras put all of the controls front and center allowing the user to easily change a setting at a moments notics.

The hot shoe

The hot shoe is a connection on the top of a camera that allows the user to electronically connect an external flash to a camera and transform the photo of a subject from a “deer in headlights” look to a polished pro image. Using on and off camera lighting creatively can produce amazing pictures.

A hot shoe is a connection point on the top of the camera that allows the user to connect things, like an external flash or flash controls.

An external speedlight can bounce the flash and give a portrait a much more professional look.

Changeable lenses

Many cameras allow the end user to change out lenses. There are lenses for any need, from super powerful telephoto lenses to lenses designed to get up close and personal with tiny objects (like bugs). I often use a wide-angle lens when I take professional architectural shots as it opens up the space and makes rooms look bigger. I also use a medium telephoto lens when taking portraits. Its long focal length and wide aperture allow me to keep the subject in focus while creating a creamy, blurred background.

There are dozens of different lenses available for cameras. Above (from left to right) you can see a tilt-shift lens for architectural photography, A medium zoom lens, a super zoom lens, a 35 mm prime lens, and a 50 mm prime lens.

I use a wide angle lens when taking interior shots to give the space a more open look.

Accurate focusing

Cameras can focus very quickly in tricky light situations. Some older cameras were specifically designed to be great at focusing and were used by sports and wildlife photographers. Many newer cameras have phenomenal focus, even in their consumer-level offerings. Along with focusing is tracking (the ability to follow a moving object and keep it in focus). The same rules apply here.

Manual focusing

There are times when it is best to focus the camera yourself. If I could have manually focused my phone when taking the eclipse photo, it would have turned out significantly better. The majority of cameras have some form of manual focusing; however, pro cameras make manual focusing an easy option.

Low light performance

Cell phones use computer calculation tricks to make dimly lit photographs look clear. Cameras do this too, but also have much larger sensors which have the ability to gather significantly more light. For instance, a full-frame sensor has over 30 times more surface area than the tiny sensor of a typical cell phone.

Consumer cameras vs. Professional cameras.

One way to separate cameras is between consumer-level and enthusiast/professional-level models. Consumer-level cameras are less expensive. They can do many of the things that a pro-camera can do, just not quite as well. For instance, many consumer-level cameras can freeze action as they have a maximum fast shutter speed of 1/4000 of a second, while many pro-cameras have shutters that can operate as fast as 1/8000 of a second, and even faster than that when they are in all electronic mode. Note that you can freeze a human at play at around 1/250th of a second; pro-bird photographers usually shoot at a 1/1000 to 1/2000 of a second, and to freeze a speeding car, you may need a shutter speed of 1/4000th of a second. Shutter speeds faster than 1/4000th of a second are only used for exceptional situations.

A consumer-level camera will have simplified controls. You can often control the same things that you can with a pro-level camera, but you will need to go through additional steps to do this. A pro-level camera has dedicated physical controls front and center, whereas a consumer-level camera may require you to press several buttons or go into the camera’s menu system.

Consumer-level cameras are usually made of some sort of polycarbonate (plastic), whereas pro-level cameras often have a magnesium frame that is coated in a rubbery material. In general, everything from the switches to the shutter mechanism is more robust and built to last longer on a pro camera. Higher-end professional cameras are also weather sealed and can withstand being in the rain (within reason). Such a situation would short out a consumer-level camera.

Over time features drift from one group to another. High end features like fast focusing drift down from pro-cameras to consumer cameras, and convenience features like flip out screens drift up from consumer cameras to high end ones.

Is it reasonable to buy an older camera?

Technology in the camera world has advanced rapidly. However, older cameras can take stunning photographs in just about any scenario. An enthusiast/pro camera from as early as 2008 and many consumer-level cameras from a few years after that can take amazing pictures. If someone has special interests, like photographing birds in flight or performers in a dark and smoky jazz club, they may need to be more selective when deciding what older camera they should choose, but those options are out there. Many photographers prefer the photos that come out of older cameras, which some say are more “filmic.” (looks more like traditional film)

What can newer cameras do that older ones can’t?

In the world of photography cameras are always advancing with better specifications and features. For instance, newer cameras may be able to focus at blazing rates or have computerized features like eye detection focusing. However, many older cameras are still very capable. Remember, these cameras were state of the art devices used by professionals who took professional photos. In fact, some professionals continue to use these cameras with great success.

The question of Megapixels.

Older cameras may have as little as 12 MP sensors, while the highest megapixel count of some newer cameras exceeds 60 MP. However, the pixel count doesn’t really matter unless you are wildly cropping images or if you need to print huge photos that will be viewed up close and personal. Photographers have long created large prints using ten and 12-MP cameras. There have been art photos displayed in museums that were taken with a 6 MP camera. In other words, don’t worry about the MP count. Did you know that traditional 35 mm film has a resolution between 12-16 megapixels? Most photos on social media are reduced by the platform to under 2 MP. In the real world, anything above 10 MP will do you just fine. Most newer cameras are in the 20-24 MP range.

Recommended Image size of social media sites:

Facebook photo 1200 x 628 pixels or 0.8 MP

Twitter Profile photo 400 x 400 pixels or 0.2 MP

Instagram Square 1080 x 1080 pixels or 1.2 MP

YouTube thumbnail 1280 x 720 pixels or 1.0 MP

All about sensor size.

The camera sensor on a smartphone is tiny, and the phone’s computer has to do a lot of work to take the information from that sensor and turn it into an awesome photo. Dedicated cameras have much larger sensors. These sensors have greater surface areas so that they can capture more light. Additionally, the larger sensor size combined with the physical properties of the lens used can create all sorts of interesting effects, the most common being bokeh, where the subject is in sharp focus while the background is a soft blur.

Often, the larger the sensor, the more expensive the camera. A larger sensor area means the camera can produce good images when light conditions are low. Additionally, larger sensors often have better dynamic range. There are more levels between absolute black and pure white in the image. However, smaller sensors are constantly improving, and with their improvements, their cameras have also gone up in price. Some smaller sensors now rival some larger ones in the quality of the images they produce. Note that all typically used sensor sizes have the potential to create stunning images, and image quality depends on more than the sensor. The camera’s image processor and the quality of the lens used are just as important.

When quizzed, many professionals can’t determine what size sensor an image came from by just looking at a print made from that image. When they succeed, they use tricks, like looking for the depth of field in an image or other things that consumers would be unaware of.

Types of sensors.

-1″ These sensors are primarily used in high-quality compact and bridge cameras. These sensors have about five times more surface area than a typical cell phone sensor.

-Micro 4/3. These sensors are used by Olympus/OM systems and Panasonic/Lumix cameras. They have around 9 times more surface area than a typical cell phone sensor. Because these brands use a smaller sensor than brands like Nikon and Canon they can make cameras that have smaller bodies and that use smaller lenses. The lenses may be less expensive as they need less optical glass to cover the smaller sensor.

-APS-C. This sensor size is used by many different camera manufacturers because it is at the sweet spot between cost and performance. It has a surface area around 15 times larger than a typical cell phone. APS-C cameras can be smaller and use less expensive lenses than Full Frame sensor cameras.

-Full Frame. Used in flagship cameras, full-frame sensors have around 36 times more surface area than a typical cell phone sensor. Because of this, they often have the best low-light performance and the best dynamic range, and they also can produce the best bokeh. However, they are the most expensive cameras, have the most expensive lenses, and are usually bigger and bulkier than cameras that use smaller (yet very capable) sensors.

DSLR or Mirrorless.

DSLRs are based on an older film camera design that uses mirrors and prisms to share the image from the lens with the image sensor and the viewfinder. Despite being an old design, it is very refined. Mirrorless cameras don’t need this system, as the image that you see is directly sent from the image processor. It is a video image, not an optical one. Your cell phone camera is a mirrorless camera. Manufacturers like Olympus/OM Systems, Panasonic, and Fuji have made mirrorless cameras for a long time. Sony initially built DSLR/SLT cameras, but they changed to mirrorless cameras fairly early on. Canon and Nikon were the DSLR holdouts; however, they recently switched over to all mirrorless cameras.

Early mirrorless cameras had low-resolution displays, slow focusing, and laggy viewfinders. However, that is in the past. Mirrorless technology allows for more bells and whistles. For instance, some cameras can recognize what a moving object is (car vs. person) and track it accordingly.

Both DSLRs and mirrorless cameras can take excellent photos; they are just slightly different technologies. Older mirrorless cameras often use a slower contrast-detection focusing system compared to the lightning-fast phase-detection focusing of DSLRs. However, that has also changed, and now, some high-end mirrorless cameras have the ability to instantly focus on just about anything.

Which DSLR or mirrorless should you buy?

That is up to you. If you are looking for a bargain in a high-performance action camera, you can’t go wrong with an enthusiast/pro-level DSLR. Cameras that sold for thousands of dollars years ago can now be had for a few hundred, and they are still great cameras. Additionally, there are dozens of lenses for these cameras, and they are often sold at much more reasonable prices than lenses for some of the newer camera systems. Nikon and Canon were the DSLR leaders. Both offered cameras that professional photographers loved to use. Both companies switched to mirrorless cameras a few years back.

The new Canon and Nikon mirrorless cameras are absolutely fantastic but expect to spend big bucks to buy one. Additionally, the lenses (which are excellent) use new mounts that are different from their DSLR brethren and are extremely expensive.

Sony cameras have been mirrorless for quite some time and you can buy some of their earlier (and excellent) mirrorless offerings at reasonable prices. Additionally, there are many older Sony branded and third party lenses available on the used market. However, their new cameras are also stratospherically expensive.

Sony, Nikon, and Canon cameras use sensors that are either APS-C (smaller) or FF (full frame) in size. Although they have their differences, both sensor types take excellent images. Older full-frame cameras were better at taking photos in low light than older APS-C sensors. APS-C sensors offered lower cost and greater magnification (crop factor). Newer APS-C cameras are very capable of working in low light.

Fuji has always made mirrorless cameras that have a retro and exquisite style. Fuji designs its own image sensor using proprietary technology. Some say that their sensors produce the most pleasing images, but that is a subjective opinion. I felt that the early Fuji cameras were slow to focus, but they have improved dramatically over the years. Most Fuji cameras have APS-C-sized sensors.

Panasonic and Olympus/OM Systems cameras use a sensor size called 4/3 (or micro 4/3). These sensors are smaller than APS-C but still take great photos. Older cameras with these sensors may not perform as well as larger sensors in low light. They offer a magnification (cropping) factor even greater than APS-C sensors, which could be a plus when shooting distant objects. Their bodies and lenses are smaller (due to the smaller sensor), which makes them excellent for travel and street photography. Their lenses use less glass (smaller sensor) and, therefore, are often less expensive. Panasonic cameras have a more traditional look, while Olympus/OM Systems cameras have a retro look. Both used a focusing system called contrast detection, which could be slower than the phase detection used on DSLRs.

One of my early mirrorless cameras was a 2011 Olympus EPL-2, which used Olympus’s original contrast-detection focusing system. I found its focus reasonably snappy, and the photo quality was excellent. Newer micro 4/3 cameras have great focusing. Micro 4/3 cameras often initiated novel and cool features in their cameras. Things like in-body image stabilization (IBIS), built-in ND (neutral density) filters, and built-in focus stacking. Other camera manufacturers “borrowed” these ideas and have incorporated them into some of their cameras. If you don’t know what these features are, just accept that they are fantastic.

Recommendations.

It is tough to give recommendations as everyone has different needs. However, for the cost-conscious, here are a few suggestions. My focus will be on lower-cost systems that offer high value. I’ll also emphasize still image use. Although some of these cameras can take reasonable video, video is best left for newer cameras.

For sports and wildlife, DSLR cameras like the Nikon D300S, Nikon D500, Canon 7D, and 7D Mark II are good choices, with the newer version performing better than the older one.

The Nikon D500 offers fantastic focusing for action events like sports.

For “Jack of all trades” full frame shooting the Canon 5DII or 5DIII are good choices, as are the Nikon D700, Nikon D600, Nikon D750, and Nikon D800. The Sony A7 II is a more compact mirrorless camera with a full frame sensor. For a less expensive APS-C camera consider the Canon 60D, 70D, or 80D and the Nikon D7000, D7100 models.

Although fairly old technology, the Canon 5D Mark II is a legendary camera that introduced a usable movie mode. The Mark II has been used to film parts of many TV shows and movies, although newer cameras have greater video ease of use and resolution. The Mark II is still a wonderful stills camera.

For a cool-looking around-town contender, check out the Fuji X-T1 or X-T2 or one of the early Fuji X100 fixed lens cameras, such as the X100S or X100T. A fixed lens means you can’t change the lens. The X100 series of cameras have a fantastic lens, but you will need to “zoom in with your feet.”

For a versatile smaller camera, the APS-C Sony A6000 could be a good choice. I also like the APS-C Canon M6 Mark II (although its lens mount is now discontinued). I own both of these cameras and usually wind up grabbing the Canon.

The Sony A6000 is a feature packed APS-C camera.

I love my Canon M6 Mark II. Its lens mount has been discontinued but you can find many used lenses at great prices.

If you are looking for a quality older camera that is also very capable at shooting video consider the Panasonic GH4 which offered cutting edge video when it was introduced.

The Panasonic GH4 set the standard for modern video recording.

If you are looking for an around town or travel camera consider the Olympus OMD-EM-10 or the OMD-EM-5 (original or second generation). These micro 4/3 cameras have smaller camera bodies and smaller lenses.

Due to its smaller sensor the Olympus OM-D EM 5 Mark II offers a nice compact size.

Naturally, there are dozens of other cameras that could be included in the above list, which is designed to get you thinking rather than trying to influence your decision-making.

An older camera may lack some of the technical bells and whistles of newer cameras, but they are extremely capable and much less inexpensive than newer offerings. These were the aspirational cameras of photographers when they were launched, and photographers produced stunning images using them. Many of these cameras offer up-front controls, making it very easy to experiment and learn.

Lastly, some of these manufacturers make cameras with an even smaller 1″ sensor. However, those are primarily used in pocket and bridge cameras and would need to be the topic of a different post.

Where to buy?

Resellers like KEH, Adorama, and B and H test the used cameras they sell and offer limited warranties. You may pay a little more, but you are assured of a working camera. I have bought used cameras on eBay. However, eBay is more like of a Wild West show, but I have had good luck choosing sellers who have many sales and high ratings. A word of caution. Camera shutters (especially on a pro camera) may function well over 100,000 actuations. However, it is always better to buy a camera with a lower shutter count (75K or less). Also, if a camera looks like it has been through the war, it probably has been, and it is likely not a good choice for a first real camera purchase.

A little bit about lenses.

One of the coolest things about many cameras is that you can change the lenses out. There are so many different types of lenses, from super wide angle to super telephoto lenses. Additionally, there are many specialty lenses. You can use a tilt-shift lens for architectural photography to eliminate perspective distortion (a building that looks as if it is falling away or towards you in the photo). There are also many macro lenses that focus incredibly closely, and these lenses are used to take amazing shots of tiny things, like insects.

Lenses can be extremely expensive, depending on whether they are designed for professionals or consumers. But there is a workaround. Most camera manufacturers have moderate zoom kit lenses that can be purchased with the camera at a good price. These lenses are frequently made of plastic and have limitations. Some have fairly good optics, while others are a bit crappy. You can find many used ones on eBay and other sites for a very good price, and they can help you start your camera journey. Just google to see if a particular lens model is considered good or bad. Don’t buy a bad lens, and don’t expect a kit lens to perform like a professional lens. However, a decent kit lens is very versatile. Ones with limited range (like 18-55 mm) can get you started, but those that have a broader range (like 18-150 mm) may be the only lens that you ever need. Beyond their plastic build kit, these lenses have a variable aperture. The level of light coming in is reduced the more you zoom out the lens. I often use an 18-150 mm kit lens when I’m hiking with my Canon M6 Mark II camera. Its zooming capability gives me a lot of options, and its lightweight plastic construction is easier to carry than an all-metal pro-style lens. Pro-level lenses often have a fixed aperture that is constant throughout the lenses zoom range.

There are also plastic but reasonably good prime lenses (prime lenses have just one focal length, so they don’t have any zoom ability). Many manufacturers make a 50 mm (good for portraits) and a 35 mm (good for general photography) bargain lens, which has much better optics than kit lenses. New, they sell for a couple of hundred dollars, but used, they can be had for less.

A commonly used professional-level zoom lens is the 70-200 mm F2.8 zoom. You often see this type of lens being used by journalists and other professionals due to its great versatility. This is a fantastic lens when you need to obtain a close-up of something, but you are at a distance. For instance, you can shoot your kids’ soccer game or take photos of them performing on stage. As an example, Canon’s version of this lens for their new RF-mount mirrorless cameras sells for an eye-watering $2,600.00! Canon’s older DSLRs use the EF style mount, and a used pro-level EF 70-200 mm F2.8 can be purchased for $500-$600. If you want to save even more money, you could go with a used Canon EF 70-200 F4 (smaller aperture, so it is less good in very dark conditions) for around $450.00.

Just like when buying a used camera it is best to buy from a reputable dealer. However, I often buy on eBay for a better price and have had good results. When you buy a used lens, test it out to make sure that the optics don’t have mold growing inside (bad) and it focuses properly. Return the lens if it is defective and try again.

Remember, lens mounts are specific to a camera brand and can vary within that brand. As an example, Canon’s Full Frame DSLR uses EF mount lenses, while their APS-C DSLR cameras can use cheaper EF-S mount lenses as well as the more premium EF mount lenses. Canon’s new mirrorless cameras use the expensive RF mount. My little Canon M6 Mark II is an orphan model that uses the now-discontinued EF-M lens mount. I know this sounds very confusing, but once you know what lens mount your camera uses (just Google “What lens mount can a XXX use?”), you will be set. It is not difficult at all.

A word about video.

The first high-end stills camera to also take video was the Nikon D90, introduced in August 2008. It was absolutely revolutionary in this regard, but it could only take 5 minutes of video at a low 720p. Cameras rapidly improved, and the next milestone camera was the Canon 5D Mark II, introduced in September 2008. That camera could take 1080p video and has been used to shoot parts of TV shows and even movies. Yet, older cameras have many drawbacks from newer models when it comes to video. For instance, many older cameras will give you better results if you focus them manually when in video mode. If you are very interested in a camera that can take both still images and also has easy video recording, go for a newer old camera, or perhaps spend the extra money for a new consumer-level camera.

Software anyone?

Photo editing software can raise your photos to another level. There is a lot of free or very inexpensive photo editing software out there. If there is interest, I’ll post about that topic.

Final Thoughts.

Buying a used camera will still cost money, but it will be a much smaller investment than buying a new camera while giving you all of the tools needed to up your photography results. These cameras may be all that you ever need, or you may acquire GAS (gear acquisition syndrome) and eventually get the latest and greatest camera of the future. I can’t control your desires.

Some of the new consumer-level cameras have amazing features, great focusing, and fantastic low-light performance. However, they are light both on direct controls and construction. Yet, they will still be more expensive than many of the cameras listed above. However, you do you.

As a Kodak commercial once said, “Share moments, share life.”